Team Associated RC10 Team Car (1990) 6035 / 6036

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1990, the RC10 Team Car was available in two kit options: #6035 - with an alloy chassis, or #6036, with a graphite chassis, both built around the new Stealth gearbox, designed and developed specifically for the World Championships.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

1990 RC10 Team Cars

   The 2WD RC10 Team Cars are gear driven, based on either a black formed alloy chassis tub, with a bolt on nose plate, or a formed graphite plate, each with coil spring over oil filled dampers, a ball differential, universal joint drive-shafts, servo-saver, pneumatic tires, Viper bodyshell, turnbuckles, Stealth Gearbox and a full set of ball bearings.

   A number of changes were made to the RC10 Team Car over its time in production. In early kits, all the plastic parts were cream colored, these gradually changed to black. Other changes were to the design of some of the lesser components, including: The shape of the chassis brace, the shock cap and the plastic ball connectors. Different slipper pads were used, at least four different kit spur gears and two versions of the gear cover.

Model Versions:

• #6035 RC10 Team Car Kit with black aluminum tub chassis, less battery, motor, radio, and speed control
• #6036 RC10 Team Car Kit with graphite chassis, less battery, motor, radio, and speed control

Features:

• Associated transmission
• New, improved, hard-anodized PTFE-coated racing shocks
• Turnbuckle tie-rods and links
• Wide-track front suspension
• Zero-offset front end
• Lightweight one-piece wheels
• Viper buggy body
• Universal dogbone/stub axles
• Ball bearings throughout

RC10 Team Cars - Common Features:

   The RC10 Team Car - Viper bodyshell.

RC10 Team Car - Stealth Gearbox:

   Stealth Gearbox with felt dust protector.



   Stealth Gearbox on motor mount.



   Slipper Clutch and Quick Change Spur Grar - just 2 screws.

RC10 Team Car Dampers:

   Teflon coated dampers, based on the new design first seen on the CE, were used for the RC10 Team Cars, and just like the CE, the number of adjustment holes on the shock mounts were 4 on the early models, and 6 holes on the later versions..



   A special assembly tool was required to position the O-rings inside the dampers.

RC10 Team Car Drive-Shafts:

   Both versions of the RC10 Team Car came with Universal Joint Drive-Shafts (#6371).

1990 RC10 Team Car - #6035

   RC10 Team Car #6035 box sides.



   RC10 Team Car Black Alloy Chassis.



   Black Chassis "B" Stamp. Early #6035 kits came with an "A" Stamp (rare), which were re-drilled for the Stealth Gearbox. (for complete "Stamp" details see 1990 RC10 CE page linked below)



   RC10 Team Car - #6035.

1990 RC10 Team Car - #6036

   RC10 Team Car #6036 box sides.



   RC10 Team Car Graphite Chassis.



   The RC10 Team Car Graphite Chassis was produced using a number of different weaves. (see RC10 Graphite (1989) page linked below)



   RC10 Team Car - #6036.

RC10FX Special Team Car - #6035

   A Team Associated RC-10FX Special kit was produced around the same time, sold in Japan only by Yokomo.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Wheel Camber - for cornering stability

   Camber is described as the angle of the wheel as you look at it directly from the front or rear of your car and if set correctly will improve your cars cornering ability considerably, by providing increased traction. This simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.

   Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards.

   First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race mode that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis.

   To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.