Team Associated RC10 CE (1992) #6011

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1992, the entry level RC10 Championship Edition #6011, was basically an updated version of their 1990 model, with the new Stealth gearbox and a few other improvements, to keep the RC10 competitive against their improving competition.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

1992 RC10 Championship Edition (CE) Updated

   The RC10 CE Updated 1992 version has the new Stealth Gearbox, previously used for the Team Cars, and is based on a gold anodised formed alloy chassis tub, with a bolt on nose plate and motor mount, gold anodised coil spring over oil filled dampers, a tungsten carbide ball differential, dogbone drive-shafts, servo-saver, low profile pneumatic tires, new turnbuckles, new longer front A-arms, slipper clutch and bushings.

   Early kits came with the old cream colored plastic parts, but just like in the Team Car kits, as stock of the cream parts were used up, these gradually changed over to black plastic, with some kits even having a mixture of both.

   For this model, each kit came with a servo operated rheostat Speed Controller and a 27T Stock Motor. Initially the motor supplied was their own Associated Competition Stock Motor, but towards the end of kit production, these were replaced by a range of Reedy stock motors.

Model Versions:

• #6011 RC10 Championship Edition, full kit, less battery, less bearings

Features:

• Associated transmission
• New dust cover

Transmission Features:

• ATC (Associated Torque Clutch) transmission
• Quick-change spur gear
• Case-to-motor plate dirt-proof seal
• Lightweight design
• Long-life clutch friction plate
• Large-area/high-torque clutch plates
• Low-inertia drive train
• Precision-molded 48-pitch gears with extra-low 2.25 final drive ratio
• Reversible motor mounting
• Gold-anodized mounting plate
• Tungsten carbide differential balls
• Bronze bushings
• High-torque ball differential

1992 RC10 CE #6011 - Box Art:

   RC10 CE #6011 box sides.



   RC10 CE #6011 Features.

1992 RC10 CE Chassis:

   1992 RC10 CE gold anodised alloy chassis.



   Early 6011 kits came with a "B" Stamp Chassis, but by the end of production in 1996 came with "C" Stamp Chassis. (for complete "Stamp" details see 1990 RC10 CE page linked below).

1992 RC10 CE Bodyshells:

   Towards the end of the #6011 production run, there were some kits reported as having the Viper bodyshell, instead of the standard Protech II.

1992 RC10 CE - Stealth Gearbox:

   Stealth Gearbox with Tungsten Carbide Ball Differential.



   Stealth Gearbox - Manual Description.



   RC10 CE 6011 Slipper Clutch and quick change spur gear.

1992 RC10 CE - Dampers:

   Gold anodised dampers, first seen on the later versions of the 1990 CE, along with 6 hole front shock mounts, came with the 1992 version. Early 1992 kits came with black plastic damper caps, but there were reports of the old gold anodised alloy caps in some kits. Note the Black Plastic wishbones and other parts.



   A special assembly tool was required to position the O-rings inside the dampers.

1992 RC10 CE - Wheels:

   Like the 1990 RC10 CE, the 1992 kits came with three piece wheels (#6854), designed to eliminate the need for gluing.



   Each wheel is held togeather by three set screws.

1992 RC10 CE - Speed Controller:

   As an entry level kit, like many of the RC car manufacturers in in this period, Associated supplied the RC10 CE with a mecchanical, servo operated speed controller.



   RC10 CE Throttle Control Resistor wiring diagram.

#6014 Complete RC10 kit:

   A rare kit version of the Stealth RC10 CE, replaced the Mechanical speedo with a Novak Rooster ESC.



   Novak Rooster Reversible ESC.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.