Team Associated RC10 B4.2 Factory Team - 9041

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2013, the 2WD RC10B4.2 Factory Team Kit - # 9041 - has all that is required for top level racing, with a number of high-performance option parts as standard.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

2013 RC10B4.2 Factory Team

   The B4.2 FT molded composite chassis, employs a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled "Big Bore" dampers, CVA driveshafts, VTS slipper clutch, titanium turnbuckles, a full set of ball bearings and a Pro-Line Bulldog bodyshell.

Model Version:

• #9041 RC10B4.2 Factory Team

Features:

• Factory Team 12mm "Big Bore" hard anodized aluminum threaded shocks with TiN "Gold" 3mm shock shafts
• VTS slipper (variable torque, multi-plate slipper with 3 drive surfaces) assembly featuring a high-resolution spring
• Factory Team blue aluminum bellcrank set
• Factory Team 12mm blue aluminum front and rear clamping hexes with hex wheels
• Factory Team 7075-T6 blue aluminum 0° rear hubs with oversized outer bearing
• +8mm B4 chassis and Pro-Line Bulldog +8mm body
• Updated shock towers optimized for the 12mm "Big Bore" shocks
• Ball differential with light-weight outdrives
• Factory Team carbon fiber battery strap and blue aluminum thumb screws
• CVA joints with pin retainer clips
• Factory Team rear ballast weight
• Factory Team blue titanium turnbuckles
• Complete set of precision ball bearings
• Factory Team blue aluminum hinge pin brace, milled motor plate, servo mounts, and much more!

2013 RC10B4.2 FT - Box Art:

   RC10B4.2 Factory Team Box - # 9041.

2013 RC10B4.2 FT Chassis:

   RC10B4.2 Factory Team Chassis.







   Front Shock Mount and Big Bore Dampers.



   12mm blue alloy clamping hex.



   Titanium turnbuckles.



   7075-T6 blue alloy 0° rear hub.



   12mm "Big Bore" hard anodized alloy threaded dampers.



   Variable torque, multi-plate slipper clutch, with 3 drive surfaces.



   Factory Team blue anodised alloy bellcrank set.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.