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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:

Team Associated RC10 B4 Team / RTR (2003) 9034 / 9050



Introduction:

   Introduced by Team Associated in 2003, the 2WD RC10B4 Stealth Team Buggy kit - # 9034 - was the car Billy Easton took TQ and won the 2003 IFMAR 2WD World Championships, and was also voted R/C Car Action's 2003 "Car of the Year". A factory assembled RTR version - # 9050 - was also introduced, with a 17T motor, LRP ESC, Airtronics "Blazer" Sport radio system and a painted bodyshell.

Team Associated RC10 B4

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   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".


2003 RC10B4


   The B4 Team and RTR are based on a molded plastic chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers (Hard anodised Team, Blue anodised RTR), 2.60:1 ratio Stealth gearbox, CVD drive-shafts (dogbones for RTR), turnbuckles, servo saver, slipper clutch and a full set of ball bearings (bushings for RTR).

Model Versions:

  • #9034 RC10B4 Team Kit
  • #9050 RC10B4 RTR

Features:

  • 2.60:1 laydown Associated transmission with bearings in kits
  • Front shocks behind the shock tower
  • Sealed ball bearings in kits
  • Lower motor, battery, body and wing mounting positions
  • Captured hinge pin design - no E-Clips to secure
  • New, longer MIP® CVD™ drive-shafts, dogbones in RTR version
  • Lower motor mounting position
  • Kimbrough® spur gear
  • Pro-Line® M3 racing compound front and rear tires in kit versions
  • Plenty of chassis room to hold most electronics
  • All-new molded composite low-CG chassis
  • Adjustable battery position
  • New design battery hold-down strap
  • Steel turnbuckles
  • Fully adjustable caster, camber and toe-in
  • Angled bellcrank "co-planar" steering
  • Built-in servo saver
  • Vertical ball end adjustment, front and rear
  • Clear body

(Source: Associated Kits, RC10B4 Instruction Manual, 2003.)





2003 RC10 B4 - Box Art:


   The RC10 B4 Team Box - # 9034.

Associated RC10 B4 Team Box

Associated RC10 B4 Team Box Sides

   RC10 B4 Team Box underside.

RC10 B4 Team Box underside

Associated RC10 B4 Stealth Team Parts

   RC10 B4 RTR Box - # 9050.

Associated RC10 B4 RTR - 9050

2003 RC10 B4 Chassis:


   RC10 B4 Team Chassis.

Team Associated B4 Chassis

Team Associated B4 Chassis

Team Associated B4 Chassis

Team Associated B4 Chassis

Team Associated B4 Chassis

Team Associated B4 Chassis



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Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

History

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Wheel Camber - for cornering stability

   Camber is described as the angle of the wheel as you look at it directly from the front or rear of your car and if set correctly will improve your cars cornering ability considerably, by providing increased traction. This simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.

   Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards.

   First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race mode that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis.

   To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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