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Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - # 57733 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Rally Car - TT-01 Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya in November 2004, the 4WD XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 (#57733) is No.33 in the RTR Pre-Assembled Expert Built Series, based on the TT-01 chassis. The Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 kit (#58333) was introduced in October 2004 and is of the Subaru Impreza WRC that Petter Solberg drove to second place in the 2004 drivers World Rally Championship.

  A pre-painted lexan bodyshell, a 540 motor and radio system are included, but may require a battery, charger and speed controller to complete (specifications differ from country to country).

Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - TT-01 # 57733
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  The TT-01 is shaft driven, on a molded plastic chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over friction dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

  Like the majority of Tamiya models, this model comes with plastic bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To get the best from the Tamiya TT-01 Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned, for smooth acceleration under control and handle corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


      Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.

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Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis


Buying a Used Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2004
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 Electric Rally Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Rally Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Rally Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Subaru Impreza WRC 2004 model and good racing.


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Hints and Tips

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

   What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic.

   Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break.

   Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side.

   When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much.

   With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

On Road Indoor Carpet Tires


   Some indoor carpet tracks do not allow you to use anything but foam tires. The reason being the wear on the carpet some soft rubber tires, such as Proline Hawgs and Schumacher pin-spikes can create. But on some tracks, where a combination of carpet and wooden board is used, rubber tires may be allowed.

Sponge or Foam Tires


   Basically there are three foam compounds available: Soft, Medium and Hard.
   Soft foam tires will normally provide the best grip on most carpeted tracks, but wear faster than other compound tires. They also wear unevenly. Cornering always puts more stress on the outside wheels, so naturally they will wear more. Therefore, in an effort to even out that wear, the wheels must be swapped over from side to side after each race and re-trued before the next race meeting.

   Incidentally, if you are looking to learn or hone your drifting skills, try a set of hard compound foam tires. They may not be the best tires to win races on a carpet track, but the fun level is brilliant.

Foam Tire Additive


   Most indoor carpet tracks allow some kinds of tire additive, but not all. One guy at our local track, used to dip his foam tires in a glass of light ale.

   Although this form of additive may seem a little odd, there are a high number of weird and wonderful concoctions used by racers in the RC world and just as many available commercially, most of which will improve grip Ö if that is what you want.

Rubber Tires for Indoor Tracks


   Unlike outdoor racing where track temperature comes into play, indoor tire choice is comparatively easy.

   On tracks where rubber tires are allowed, with a combination of carpet, board or other surface type, the choice of tire is generally determined by the areas of track where the grip is least. Local knowledge on these tracks is always helpful as a starting point, but don't always accept any suggestions as being the best. Trial and error, on your practice laps, before racing begins in earnest, can often highlight a different tire more suited to your particular driving style.

   Also check out my article for On-Road Tarmac Tires.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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