RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430. ITEM: # 57771 TT-01
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags

Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - # 57771 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-01 Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on December 15, 2007, the 4WD XB Eclipse Advan SC430 (#57771) is No.71 in the RTR Pre-Assembled Expert Built Series, based on the TT-01 chassis. The Tamiya Eclipse Advan SC430 kit (#58394) on the TA-05 IFS Chassis, was introduced in September 2007. The model is of the Eclipse Advan SC430 that raced in the 2007 Super GT season.

  A pre-painted lexan bodyshell, a 540 motor and radio system are included, but may require a battery, charger and speed controller to complete (specifications differ from country to country).

Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - TT-01 # 57771
▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


  The TT-01 is shaft driven, on a molded plastic chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over friction dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

  Like the majority of Tamiya models, this model comes with plastic bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To get the best from the Tamiya TT-01 Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned, for smooth acceleration under control and handle corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


      Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.

ebay




Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Items For Sale:











Flags


Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis

Tamiya XB Eclipse Advan SC430 - TT-01 Chassis
Tamiya TT-01 Chassis


Buying a Used Tamiya Eclipse Advan SC430
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Tamiya Eclipse Advan SC430 Electric Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Eclipse Advan SC430 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Eclipse Advan SC430 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Eclipse Advan SC430 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Eclipse Advan SC430 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Tamiya Eclipse Advan SC430 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Eclipse Advan SC430 model and good racing.


▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide














^ TOP ^












Tamiya Buggys Tamiya Trucks Tamiya Monster Trucks Tamiya Rock Crawlers Tamiya Off Road Chassis Types Tamiya Touring Car Tamiya Drift Car Tamiya WRC Car Tamiya M Chassis
Tamiya Tractor Trucks Tamiya Touring Car Chassis Tamiya F1 Tamiya F1/Le Mans Chassis Types Tamiya Military Tamiya Tanks












Hints and Tips

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

   Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition accelerating out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will always get you to the end of the race, but it will hardly ever get you on the winner's rostrum.

   Having said that, on tracks you don't know, initially it's always best to err on the side of low gearing. For your first practice laps on a new track, choose a motor that has a reasonable current draw and with a fully charged battery, try a race length run, learn the corners … what line to enter and exit, where you can accelerate to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake) the opposition. After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor loses efficiency … all this helps when selecting the right gearing.)

   Armed with this knowledge you can then consider how to alter your gearing.

   If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion … perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it.

   An overly hot motor and low remaining capacity battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less powerful motor.

   If the motor is hot, but not too hot, the battery has ample remaining charge and you did not notice any drop in efficiency towards the end of your practice run, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular motor.

   Depending on how competitive that set-up is, you can stick with it, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different motor to get you where you want to be.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Wheels

   When it comes to wheels, the majority of people tend to go for what looks good, something that will make their car stand out from the crowd, but are they the best wheels for you when it comes to winning races on the track?

   Quite a number of years ago I read an article in an RC magazine about RC model wheels and how important it is to have the right ones on your car. I was so impressed by that article that I immediately sold off all my old wheels and bought a batch of new ones … why? Read on.

   In order for a tire to maintain grip, it needs to preserve the downward pressure through the cars suspension onto the road surface. To do this, not only must the wheels be concentric, they have to be totally rigid. So, if you accept that premise as fact, you will realise that the majority of the flashy wheel designs available for all types of RC model cars are not exactly what you might call rigid. In point of fact, they are down right flimsy.

   If you take a good hard look at some of those multi spoked pressure injected plastic wheels you have in your car box, you will soon see what I mean. Just take one in your hand, squeeze it just a little and you will realise how weak and feeble the construction of these cheap and nasty things are. Looks aren't everything. If you want to be up there with the best you have to strive for the best and that doesn't necessarily mean the most expensive. There are lots of wheels out there at reasonable prices that can give you that rigidity you need. Okay, they might not look pretty, but they will perform better and give you that extra one percent that could mean the difference between winning and losing. You have to ask yourself, what you want your car to be, the one that everyone admires for its flashy good looks, or the one that gets you to the top.

   So there you have it, rigid wheels are the thing to go for. They may be heavier and provide a more dynamic rotating mass, requiring more braking than those flimsy lightweight wheels out there … but then, that is a whole new subject.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








^ TOP ^


On/Off Road
RC Models:

Radio
Equipment:

Accessories: