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Tamiya Mazda RX-7 - #58382 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-01 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on February 21, 2007, this TT-01 Chassis electric RC model, is of the Mazda RX-7 sports car that has a Wankel Rotary engine.The Tamiya lightweight Lexan polycarbonate body shell accurately recreates the beautifully curved RX-7 futuristic body shape. An electronic speed controller (ESC) and LED lights are included in the kit. 
The budget priced TT-01 Chassis was introduced by Tamiya in 2003 to replace the highly successful TL-01 that had been used for over thirty RC models since its introduction in 1997. A silver can 540 motor, coil spring over friction shock absorbers and plastic bush type bearings come as standard in this low budget model. The Differentials are orbital gear type and should be greased at regular intervals to avoid excessive wear. My recommendation is to use molybdenum grease. The bathtub chassis has battery cut-outs for ladder type packs, but will accommodate stick (shotgun) packs also. A low centre of gravity and good balance provide much improved handling over the TL-01. A number of hop-ups are available for the TT-01 to improve performance, but there is one I would recommend before you first assemble the kit. As mentioned before, the kit comes with plastic/nylon and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, will abrade the metal drive shafts that spin in them - if you are building this kit to race seriously, these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
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Tamiya Mazda RX-7 #58382 TT-01 - Chassis |
Tamiya Mazda RX-7 #58382 TT-01
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Buying a Used Tamiya Mazda RX-7 |
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Hints and TipsEmergency Plastic Part RepairsIt always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on. So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now? Some kind of repair is your only option. The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner. What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic. Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break. Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side. When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much. With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish. |
Hints and TipsHow to Charge Rechargeable Batteries |
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