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Tamiya Raybrig NSX 2004 - #58339 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-01 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on December 20, 2004, this TT-01 Chassis electric RC model, is of the Raybrig NSX that raced in the 2004 Japan GT Championships. This model was previously released on the TB-02 Chassis (#58337).The lightweight Lexan polycarbonate body shell accurately depicts the sleek aerodynamic contours of the stylish NSX. Decals of the Raybrig livery are included in the kit. 
The budget priced TT-01 Chassis was introduced by Tamiya in 2003 to replace the highly successful TL-01 that had been used for over thirty RC models since its introduction in 1997. A silver can 540 motor, coil spring over friction shock absorbers and plastic bush type bearings come as standard in this low budget model. The Differentials are orbital gear type and should be greased at regular intervals to avoid excessive wear. My recommendation is to use molybdenum grease. The bathtub chassis has battery cut-outs for ladder type packs, but will accommodate stick (shotgun) packs also. A low centre of gravity and good balance provide much improved handling over the TL-01. A number of hop-ups are available for the TT-01 to improve performance, but there is one I would recommend before you first assemble the kit. As mentioned before, the kit comes with plastic/nylon and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, will abrade the metal drive shafts that spin in them - if you are building this kit to race seriously, these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
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Tamiya Raybrig NSX 2004 #58339 TT01 - Chassis |
Tamiya Raybrig NSX 2004 #58339 TT01
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Buying a Used Tamiya Raybrig NSX |
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Hints and TipsKeeping NotesIf all you will ever do is go racing at your local track every week, then this article is not for you. However, if you ever look towards travelling around to different tracks around the country, or even the world, the value of keeping notes is all too obvious. Every time I raced in a regional or national competition meeting, I would make detailed notes, aided by a little local knowledge initially and later fine tuned to suit my own driving style. My experience now means there are few, if any outdoor tarmac tracks within a 300 mile radius I haven been to and my notes on motor, gearing, camber angles, shock settings, tire choice and what inserts work best for that particular track, amongst others, allow me to save valuable time on the finer points of car setup, that can be done in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table days before the meeting, instead of the often crippling heat, or the arduous conditions inside a wind blown tent. There are lots of methods for making notes on setup. The easiest perhaps is to download the blank pages often supplied by your cars manufacturer with a line drawing of your car and spaces for you to fill in as to the setting you prefer. Great if each time you go to a particular track the conditions are always constant. Notes made on a cold windy day will be little use on a hot sunny days racing on the same track. Manufacturers setup pages for their top drivers can also be useful as a starting point, but you should never take that setup as being the best there could ever be. So, the first note you should make is of the weather conditions. The wind and its direction isn't really what I am talking about, although it can have an effect on your cars handling, it is not something you can change your setup to handle. Track temperature and humidity are the main things to note. Not the average for the day, but for each round of racing. And note what tires you used and how the car handled in each race. Detail everything that might be useful in the future, no matter how trivial. Note the motor used and the gearing. Check the temperature of the motor after the race, how much charge is left in the batteries. You may have won the race, but there is always room for improvement … your competitors will be doing just that. Every bit of information you compile will be useful for the next time you visit that particular venue. Weather forecasts these days are far more accurate than they used to be, so the adage "fore warned is fore armed" fits the bill. Simply search through your notes and find a day you raced with similar conditions to those forecast and set up your car to suit. But don't stop there. The conditions may be the same as they were when you made your notes, but that doesn't mean you can't improve your setup. Your practice laps will soon prove if your previous setup was correct, or give you a basis for more fine tuning. If you want to be the best, you have to work at it. Success doesn't come easy. You can be the best driver around, but if your setup isn't perfect you will never step up onto the winners rostrum. My motto … if you never try anything, you never do anything. And if you never do anything wrong, you aren't trying hard enough. |
Hints and TipsGearing to WinJust because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race. In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start? At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own and adjust your set-up to suit. Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive. Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost. Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition accelerating out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will always get you to the end of the race, but it will hardly ever get you on the winner's rostrum. Having said that, on tracks you don't know, initially it's always best to err on the side of low gearing. For your first practice laps on a new track, choose a motor that has a reasonable current draw and with a fully charged battery, try a race length run, learn the corners … what line to enter and exit, where you can accelerate to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake) the opposition. After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor loses efficiency … all this helps when selecting the right gearing.) Armed with this knowledge you can then consider how to alter your gearing. If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion … perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it. An overly hot motor and low remaining capacity battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less powerful motor. If the motor is hot, but not too hot, the battery has ample remaining charge and you did not notice any drop in efficiency towards the end of your practice run, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular motor. Depending on how competitive that set-up is, you can stick with it, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different motor to get you where you want to be. |
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