|
|
|
|
|
Tamiya Abarth 500 Assetto Corse - #58444 (Radio Controlled Model Review)1/10 Scale Electric M-Chassis Model Car - M-05 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on October 2, 2009, the Fiat Abarth 500 Assetto Corse was the second Radio Controlled self assembly model to be based on the short wheelbase M05 Chassis.
The 2WD, FWD (front wheel drive) M05 Chassis has a lower centre of gravity than previous versions and good weight distribution which coupled with four wheel independent double wishbone suspension with coil spring over friction shock absorbers, orbital bevel gear differential and a three piece steering linkage gives excellent stability and handling on high speed corners. The M05 Chassis has three possible wheelbase options: The basic 210mm, M05M 225mm and M05L 239mm, that are set by changing the position of the rear suspension parts. Like the majority of the Tamiya budget priced Radio Controlled models, the standard kit comes with plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings. To drive, the M05 Chassis has much improved balance and the low centre of gravity provides excellent stability in comparison to the first FWD short wheelbase Tamiya models, the M01 and M03. However, it still needs some skill to keep it on its wheels and just like its predecessors, provides lots of fun. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
|
|
|
|
|
Tamiya Abarth 500 Assetto Corse #58444 M-05 - Chassis |
Tamiya Abarth 500 Assetto Corse #58444 M-05 - Chassis
|
Buying a Used Tamiya Abarth 500 Assetto Corse |
|
|
|
|
Hints and TipsServo InformationServos are found on all kinds of Radio Controlled Models. RC Touring Cars, Buggys, Trucks, Truggys, Monster Trucks, Rock Crawlers, Airplanes, Helicopters, Boats and Ships for Steering, Throttle Control, Rudder Operation and Wing Flaps. For complete RC beginners, choosing the right servo can be confusing, so here are a few tips to point you in the right direction. The standard, plastic bushed (bearings) type servos are fine to start with but come with plastic/nylon gears that can break easily in collisions. So, to protect your servo gears to some degree, make sure you have a good "servo saver". Servo Savers come in a number of forms and are often included as standard on some RC Models. The best ones, in my opinion, are those that use a small spring to absorb the shock of the crash and are simply fitted in place of the servo horn. For lightweight, small scale models, plastic geared servos are fine. But for medium to large scale RC models, I would recommend metal or titanium gear servos. These servos are by nature heavier and more costly than the plastic geared ones but are well worth the extra expense, for obvious reasons. Digitally controlled Servos use a microprocessor based controller board. They are generally faster, provide better torque and centralise more accurately than the older Analogue types, but again at a higher cost. As you advance in experience and skill, you might feel the need for something to match your lightning reflexes. Mos-FET, or simply FET Servos use Ball bearings and will provide the high speed response you crave, but at a price. However, if your budget will stretch to the higher cost, the improvement in performance can make a big difference. |
Hints and TipsTires for RC ModelsRubber Tires:You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) for varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars and varying pin sizes for carpet and Off Road racing Buggys and Trucks. How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.1/ Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims. 2/ You will need strong fingers to pull and maneuver the Tires over the rims, so you may need the help of an adult. I would recommend NOT using metal Tire levers or a spoon as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later. The technique I recommend, is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spigot making sure the sponge (or rubber) insert is not trapped and positioned centrally. 3/ You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires in position. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race. My recommendation is to glue them. Superglue is the thing to use. To do this, carefully pull the beading out of its seating, put on a spot of glue, then quickly push it back down. repeat this at least 6 times around each side of the wheel. Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult. |
|
|
|
