RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Tamiya Pennzoil Nismo GT-R # 44011 TGX Mk1.
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Tamiya Pennzoil Nismo GT-R - # 44011 (Radio Controlled Model)

1/8 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car: TGX Mk1 Chassis

  Released by Tamiya on September 24, 1998, the 4WD Pennzoil Nismo GT-R - # 44011 - is No.11 in the Glow-Engine RC Car Series and was based on the TGX Mk1 chassis with an FS 15LT engine.

Tamiya Pennzoil Nismo GT-R - 44011 - 1:8 Nitro On Road

  The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, bushings and some ball bearings.

  Like the majority of Tamiya RC models, this model comes with plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually abrade the metal shafts that spin in them - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To race the Tamiya Pennzoil Nismo GT-R, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.


      Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.





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★ Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis

★ Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis

★ Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TGX Mk1 Chassis


Buying a Used Tamiya TGX Mk1
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Tamiya TGX Mk1 Nitro Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Tamiya TGX Mk1 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your TGX Mk1 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your TGX Mk1 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The TGX Mk1 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Tamiya TGX Mk1 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your TGX Mk1 model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Touring Car, check out my Hints and Tips page.














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Hints and Tips

Wings

   When you think of the Wing or the spoiler on any RC model car, you immediately think of down-force, but which wing is best for your model and what setting should it have?

   When you first build your car, most drivers will cut out the wing supplied in the kit, put it on the car and forget about it. It's only when the new kid at your local track, starts beating you that you begin thinking about changing a few things to make your car faster and one of the easiest changes you could make is to your wing.

   Choosing a wing for off-road can be confusing, so first of all you need to understand just what your wing can do for the way your car handles. Down-force equals traction and traction is what you need for controlled acceleration. The correct wing on your car can give you a good proportion of that down-force and if it has high side panels, it can also improve cornering and straight line stability.

   The first thing you need to consider when choosing your wing is the size. A small wing may not give as much down-force as a larger one, but it also weighs less and provides less speed restricting drag. So, if the track you will be racing on has good traction naturally and has nice long straights, a small wing may be an advantage. Large wings will obviously give you more down-force and on tracks with poor traction and short straights, will be the obvious choice. If rear end grip on cornering is also a problem, go for those high side panels as well.

   Tuning your wing angle can also improve the way it performs. A more acute angle will give you improved grip, but will also increase drag. If you go more flat with your wing, down-force is reduced, but drag is also reduced, so setting your wing angle is simply a matter of trial and error to suit your needs.

   The way the wing is mounted on your car must also be considered. If it uses a wire, it has a tendency to flex as it pushes down; this obviously flattens the angle as you speed along the straights, reducing drag, which could be good in some cases, but bad in others. If your wing is held by a rigid alloy or plastic support, the previous consideration is not a problem. Down-force is maintained as constant, but so is the drag.

   Changing and tuning things like your wing may seem futile if you are the big fish in a small pond and winning at your local track is not a problem. But if you ever go to the bigger ponds, its considering things like this that can keep you competitive.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Shock Mount Settings

   The combinations of Shock settings available on the majority of on and off road cars are far too many for this article to cover, so I will endeavour to explain some of the basics, that should give you some idea what these changes might achieve. Some of the settings suggested may not be available on all RC model cars.

   If you look at the lower wishbones of you model, you may see a number of holes alongside where the ball studs for the dampers are positioned. If you were to remove those studs on the rear wishbone and reposition them in the hole further out from the center of the car, the first thing you will notice is the ride height has dropped, this can be corrected by adding C spacers above the springs. The second thing you will notice is the shocks are more sluggish, this can be compensated by using thinner oil. If this adjustment is made on an off-road car, it can be advantageous for landing after big jumps, providing improved stability due to the increased hydraulic pack in the shocks (as described in my previous article). This setting can also improve the way cars handle small bumps and dips in the track, due to the softer static damping.

   Changing the mounting hole positions used by the dampers, on the wishbone or on the shock tower, will always change the angle the dampers lay. This angle is what changes the characteristics of the shocks in that they will react to different track types and conditions. The above example is just food for thought, for those looking to improve their cars handling in relation to any other settings, such as caster, camber, toe-in etc, they may have previously made on their car. The only way to really get to grips with this subject is through trial and error.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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