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Tamiya Ferrari 458 Challenge - #58560 (Radio Controlled Model Review)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-02 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on May 22, 2013, the Ferrari 458 Challenge was their first self assembly RC model to use the TT-02 chassis.Based on the Ferrari 458 Italia, the Challenge is a circuit car that was first raced in 2009. The design of the original car was aided by Michael Schumacher, 7 times Formula One world Champion. ![]() The TT-02 Chassis was produced by Tamiya as an entry level model, to replace the aging TT-01 Chassis, that has been around since 2003. The TT-02 design is capable of utilising modern day rechargeable batteries, is also durable and easy to build and maintain. The shaft driven Chassis configuration, employs front and rear orbital bevel gear differentials, fully independent double wishbone suspension with coil spring over friction dampers. A 540 brushed silver can electric motor and an Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) are included in the kit. Radio Equipment, Battery, Charger and paint for the body shell must be purchased separately. Like the majority of Tamiya budget kits, this one comes with Plastic and sintered brass Bush type bearings, that when dust and grit get into them, abrade the drive shafts that spin in them, making them sloppy and causing dog-bone problems. I recommend these should be replaced, by a full set of Shielded Ball Bearings, on initial assembly or as soon as possible. To get the best from the TT-02 Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned so it has enough grip to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track and accelerate smoothly under control. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style. Rating: 4 ![]() |
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TT-02D Chassis Models:
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Tamiya Ferrari 458 Challenge #58560 TT-02 - Chassis![]() |
Tamiya Ferrari 458 Challenge #58560 TT-02![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Ferrari 458 Challenge |
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Hints and TipsTires for RC ModelsRubber Tires:You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) for varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars and varying pin sizes for carpet and Off Road racing Buggys and Trucks. How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.1/ Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims. 2/ You will need strong fingers to pull and maneuver the Tires over the rims, so you may need the help of an adult. I would recommend NOT using metal Tire levers or a spoon as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later. The technique I recommend, is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spigot making sure the sponge (or rubber) insert is not trapped and positioned centrally. 3/ You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires in position. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race. My recommendation is to glue them. Superglue is the thing to use. To do this, carefully pull the beading out of its seating, put on a spot of glue, then quickly push it back down. repeat this at least 6 times around each side of the wheel. Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult. |
Hints and TipsElectric Motors for RC ModelsBrushless Motor BasicsAll Brushless motors are rated by Kilovolts (KV) and is an indication of the revs per minute (RPM) that particular Motor can attain running freely, under no load conditions, per Volt of input. For Example: To calculate the Maximum RPM of a Motor listed at 4000 KV, connected to a 7.4 Volt Battery, simply multiply the two: 4000 x 7.4 = 29600 RPM. The two main types of Brushless Motors used in RC are Sensored and a Sensorless Motors. Sensored Motors can be connected directly using s cable, to the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC). The ESC is then able to monitor the performance of the Motor and regulate Current output, to attain smooth, controlled acceleration. Advance and Retard timing is made automatically by the ERSC to change torque when exiting corners and give you more RPM for long straights. Sensorless Motors can only be set manually for Advance and Retard timing and once that setting is made you have to stick with it. For obvious reasons, Sensorless motors are cheaper to buy than the Sensored type: Ideal if you just want to bash around in the back yard, but not so much if you are serious about your racing. Brushless Motors, need a reasonable amount of maintenance if they are to remain competitive. For top level racing I recommend you strip, clean and re-oil the bearings every 2 or 3 meetings (Check out our "get the best from your bearings" section). Gearing your motor correctly for any given track is always important. (Check out my Gearing tips on the Pinions Section of this site) A cool motor is an efficient motor. As your motor heats up towards the end of a race, it will loose efficiency. Gearing correctly can avoid this problem to some degree and simply following my simple guidelines, described in the aforementioned article can help you not only keep your motor running efficiently, but help you stay in front of your opposition. One last tip .. When re-building your Brushless Motor, to safely replace the Rotor, use a rolled up piece of paper and place it into the Can. This will protect your rotor against damage. Then carefully remove the paper before replacing the endbell. |
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