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Tamiya Lamborghini Countach LP500S - #58413 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-01E Chassis:Released by Tamiya on October 28, 2008, this TT-01E Chassis based model, is of the Lamborghini Countach LP500S. The LP500S was based on the Lamborghini Countach that was launched at the International Geneva Motor Show in 1971. Its futuristic wedge shape design was impressive to say the least. The Lamborghini Countach LP400 had made its debut in 1974 and the LP400S soon followed.The LP500S was born in 1982 featuring a similar front spoiler, front and rear over fenders with optional rear wing. The engine of the LP500S was upgraded to 4754cc with the cabin and exterior details, being immaculately refined. Only 320 LP500S were ever made, the last being in 1985. ![]() The budget priced 4WD shaft-driven TT-01 Type-E (E for Enhanced) bathtub frame provides for a low centre of gravity and superb balance. Four wheel double wishbone suspension with coil spring over friction shock absorbers, combine with front and rear orbital gear differentials to give excellent handling. A fibreglass reinforced nylon upper deck and gear covers go to improve the chassis rigidity and 3-piece track rods provide smooth responsive steering. The kit comes with nylon/plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - if you are building this kit to race seriously, these should be discarded and replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings. To get the best from the Tamiya TT-01E Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track and accelerate smoothly under control. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style. Rating: ![]() |
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Tamiya Lamborghini Countach LP500S #58413 TT-01E - Chassis![]() |
Tamiya Lamborghini Countach LP500S #58413 TT-01E![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Lamborghini Countach LP500S |
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Gear DifferentialsThe Gear Differentials, commonly used in Tamiya Buggys, Trucks, Touring Cars, Monster Trucks and some of the early Tamiya Formula One and Le-Mans cars, are by design more robust than the high maintenance Ball Differentials. The configuration uses a main drive gear, fixed on each side of the drive axles and either three or four small metal orbital bevel gears, in a plastic gear housing, providing the drive to each side of the car when cornering, to allow the inside wheel to rotate slower than the outside wheel. Maintaining your Gear differentials is crucial if your car is to be competitive. Regular greasing is required, preferably molybdenum grease with graphite flakes, smeared over the gear teeth. If neglected, the gear teeth grind and wear at a rapid rate and will quickly fail, leaving you with a potentially expensive rebuild. For slower moving models such as Monster Trucks, Rock Crawlers and budget end Off road Buggys, Trucks and On Road Drift and Touring Cars, where low friction differential action is not essential, Gear Differentials are ideal, providing drive to each wheel as required. However, for top level competitive racing ,On and Off Road, Ball Differentials are preferable. Admittedly, they require a little more maintenance, but the benefits on the track far outweigh the negatives of the old Gear diffs. |
Hints and TipsSolderingIn the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering. For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, if you were to advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is. Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC, but these days with connectors such as "Deans" and "Power Pole" this isn't necessary … but I still wouldn't use any kind of connector for the motor. There are basically two kinds of solder. Plumbers solder which is made up of 60% Lead and 40% Tin, where as electrical solder is the opposite 40% Lead with 60% Tin. NEVER use plumbers solder for your battery, ESC or motor joints. Lead melts at 327 degrees C, where as tin melts at 232 degrees C. The higher Lead content of plumbers means it melts at a higher temperature, which is not good for your battery cells. Also, Tin has almost half the electrical resistance of lead, so with the higher Tin content of electrical solder, electricity flows much easier to your motor. More recently, due to the European regulations for lead use, lead free solders are becoming more widely used … well, in Europe anyway. The problem with lead free is the melting temperature … it is much higher, making it difficult to produce reliable joints. Lead, as we know, is a poison to the body if ingested or inhaled in certain quantities. so when using lead based solder, try not to inhale any of the fumes and always wash your hands after completing your work. One of my friends also wears cotton gloves, but I find these cumbersome. For me lead / tin solder is far easier to use and if used with care, has less potential to damage your batteries having a much lower melting temperature. |
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