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Tamiya Ferrari 599XX - #58510 (Radio Controlled Model Review)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TT-01E Chassis:Released by Tamiya on January 11, 2012, this TT-01E Chassis based, self assembly electric RC model is of the Ferrari 599XX sports car. The lightweight Lexan Polycarbonate body shell in this kit realistically replicates the 599XX long nose, short deck, impressive lines of the car.
The budget priced 4WD shaft-driven TT-01 Type-E (E for Enhanced) bathtub frame provides for a low centre of gravity and superb balance. Four wheel double wishbone suspension with coil spring over friction shock absorbers, combine with front and rear orbital gear differentials to give excellent handling. A fibreglass reinforced nylon upper deck and gear covers go to improve the chassis rigidity and 3-piece track rods provide smooth responsive steering. Plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings come as standard with this model, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously, these should be discarded and replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings. To get the best from the Tamiya TT-01E Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track and accelerate smoothly under control. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
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Tamiya Ferrari 599XX #58510 TT-01E - Chassis |
Tamiya Ferrari 599XX #58510 TT-01E
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Buying a Used Tamiya Ferrari 599XX |
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Hints and TipsSoldering Battery PacksNicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack. Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed. A jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side is advisable. Using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Then with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough. Battery cells are notoriously very fragile and susceptible to the very high temperatures soldering requires. Anything longer than four or five seconds direct contact with the iron can cause damage to the crystal structure in the cell, so be wary. When you have solder on each end of each cell, line them up in the jig, positive to negative and dab a spot of flux on the soldered cells, then position your straps, with the solder coated side faced down, touching the solder on the end of the cell. Now place your hot iron on the strap. Heat will transfer through the strap and melt the solder on the two faces. Again, count to 3 and you should feel the strap drop slightly as the solder fuses with the solder on the cell. Repeat this for each cell on both sides to produce your desired configuration. Finally solder your two wires, previously prepared with connectors, to the pack. Do not solder wires with bare ends to your pack. If these wires were to touch and short out, you could effectively kill your expensive battery pack I use Red for positive and Black for negative, but so long as you know which is which … electrical equipment does not like the battery to be connected the wrong way. |
Hints and TipsKeeping NotesIf all you will ever do is go racing at your local track every week, then this article is not for you. However, if you ever look towards travelling around to different tracks around the country, or even the world, the value of keeping notes is all too obvious. Every time I raced in a regional or national competition meeting, I would make detailed notes, aided by a little local knowledge initially and later fine tuned to suit my own driving style. My experience now means there are few, if any outdoor tarmac tracks within a 300 mile radius I haven been to and my notes on motor, gearing, camber angles, shock settings, tire choice and what inserts work best for that particular track, amongst others, allow me to save valuable time on the finer points of car setup, that can be done in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table days before the meeting, instead of the often crippling heat, or the arduous conditions inside a wind blown tent. There are lots of methods for making notes on setup. The easiest perhaps is to download the blank pages often supplied by your cars manufacturer with a line drawing of your car and spaces for you to fill in as to the setting you prefer. Great if each time you go to a particular track the conditions are always constant. Notes made on a cold windy day will be little use on a hot sunny days racing on the same track. Manufacturers setup pages for their top drivers can also be useful as a starting point, but you should never take that setup as being the best there could ever be. So, the first note you should make is of the weather conditions. The wind and its direction isn't really what I am talking about, although it can have an effect on your cars handling, it is not something you can change your setup to handle. Track temperature and humidity are the main things to note. Not the average for the day, but for each round of racing. And note what tires you used and how the car handled in each race. Detail everything that might be useful in the future, no matter how trivial. Note the motor used and the gearing. Check the temperature of the motor after the race, how much charge is left in the batteries. You may have won the race, but there is always room for improvement … your competitors will be doing just that. Every bit of information you compile will be useful for the next time you visit that particular venue. Weather forecasts these days are far more accurate than they used to be, so the adage "fore warned is fore armed" fits the bill. Simply search through your notes and find a day you raced with similar conditions to those forecast and set up your car to suit. But don't stop there. The conditions may be the same as they were when you made your notes, but that doesn't mean you can't improve your setup. Your practice laps will soon prove if your previous setup was correct, or give you a basis for more fine tuning. If you want to be the best, you have to work at it. Success doesn't come easy. You can be the best driver around, but if your setup isn't perfect you will never step up onto the winners rostrum. My motto … if you never try anything, you never do anything. And if you never do anything wrong, you aren't trying hard enough. |
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