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Tamiya Calsonic Skyline GT-R (R34) - # 44023 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car: TG10 Mk1 Chassis

  Released by Tamiya on July 15, 1999, the Calsonic Skyline GT-R (R34) - # 44023 - is No.23 in the Glow-Engine RC Car Series and was based on the TG10 Mk1 chassis with an FS-12LT engine.

Tamiya Calsonic Skyline GT-R (R34) - 44023 - 1:10 Nitro On Road
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  The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, bushings and ball bearings.

  Like the majority of Tamiya RC models, this model comes with plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually abrade the metal shafts that spin in them - our recommendation is that these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To race the Tamiya Calsonic Skyline GT-R (R34), it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.


      Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.

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★ Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis

★ Tamiya FS-12LT ★
Tamiya FS-12LT engine

★ Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis

★ Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis ★
Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Chassis


Buying a Used Tamiya TG10 Mk1
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Tamiya TG10 Mk1 Nitro Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Tamiya TG10 Mk1 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your TG10 Mk1 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your TG10 Mk1 Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The TG10 Mk1 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Tamiya TG10 Mk1 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your TG10 Mk1 model and good racing.


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Hints and Tips

Maintain your Fuel System

   Nitro engines need a regulated constant supply of fuel to run efficiently. If this supply is restricted or contaminated in any way, the engine will show problems in a number of ways.

   If your engine is running hotter than normal, begins to stutter, has trouble idling or won't even start, your first instinct would be that it is running lean, but when you try to make adjustments, it has no effect. The reasons for your problem could be a number of things, but the most likely is a fuel or fuel line problem.

   First of all visually inspect the fuel system. Check the fuel line for any kinks or tight bends that could restrict free flow. If you do find any kinks or any damage to the line, I would recommend changing it rather than trying to simply straighten it out or repairing it in any way. Any leaks you find in the system must be dealt with, if you can, replace the parts.

   If the line looks okay, disconnect it and check for any blockages. Clean and flush it out if you can, or if necessary replace it. If your system has a fuel filter, clean or replace it.

   Check the fuel tank. If the fuel cap or the tank has been damaged in some way, this could allow contamination or debris to enter the system. If damage is found, don't risk it, change the tank.

   If the tank looks undamaged, drain it and refill with fuel. However, before you do this, check your manual to make sure that you are using the right type of fuel for your engine. If in any doubt, don't be afraid to ask someone.

   Make sure the fuel line is the correct size. If too small, it will not be capable of supplying the amount of fuel the engine requires. If the line is too large it could be impossible to reduce the flow enough for the engines needs and be constantly running rich.

   Second hand engines can often have had changes made by the previous owner that could be causing your problems. If after carrying out all the recommendations in this article, check the manufacturers' website for any details on recommended fuel and fuel system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Choosing a Nitro Engine.

   Once you have made your choice of RC model, you need the right engine to get you where you want to be out in front.

   Touring Cars: Nitro powered Touring cars require a specific ability. Your first consideration should be the tail pipe. A number of models will take only a rear tail pipe configuration, but the majority will accept the more conventional side pipe.
   Beginners should consider something with a moderate amount of power and a rotary carburettor for easier controlled handling. For top level tarmac track racing or those with more experience, look for an engine with good low end torque that has a slide valve carburettor to give you fast acceleration out of the corners.

   Trucks and Monster Trucks: Unlike on road Touring Cars, Off Road Trucks and Monster Trucks don't need that bottom end torque, unless you like to do wheelies. So something less powerful with a rotary carburettor will provide you with the smooth acceleration and less wheel spin required for controlled dirt track racing.
   If tarmac is your thing, where grip is not a problem and you have the experience, a slide carburettor may suit your needs better. Tail pipe choice is generally a matter of preference. Most trucks will accept both side and rear configurations.

   Buggys: By far the most popular Off Road Nitro RC Models there is a wide choice of Buggys out there, many of which now come with engine included.
   Most Buggy engines use a slide valve carburettor, but if you are new to RC you may be better off trying a rotary carburettor. High powered engines will throw up plenty of dust, but if you can't keep your Buggy on the track you are wasting your money. So something with less power may be better for you until you feel more confident.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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