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Tamiya Volkswagen New Beetle - #58217 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - FF-01 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on May 20, 1998, this FF-01 Chassis based electric RC model, is of the Volkswagen New Beetle. The lightweight Lexan polycarbonate body shell in this kit accurately recreates the cars lines.![]() Based on the TA-02 chassis (and does share some of its parts) the FF-01 was first introduced in 1993 and was an instant success for those looking for a realistic Front Wheel Drive experience. The FF01 chassis design employs a pressure plate ball differential and coil spring over oil filled shock absorbers. The kit comes with the plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings that when dust and grit get into them will abrade the shafts that spin in them. Therefore I suggest that these should be discarded and replaced by rubber shielded ball bearings before you start to build your kit. To drive, the FF-01 is not the easiest out of the box, but with a few simple tweaks, handling can be much improved. Under-steer for some was a problem, but with the right tuning springs and oil weight this can easily be overcome. In conclusion, a fun car to drive but could be a bit of a handful for a beginner. Rating: ![]() |
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Tamiya Volkswagen New Beetle #58217 FF01 - Chassis![]() |
Tamiya Volkswagen New Beetle #58217 FF01![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Volkswagen New Beetle |
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Ball DifferentialsBall differentials were developed in the late 1980s to replace the high friction Gear differentials. Mainly used on Tamiya Touring Cars, Le-Mans and Formula One Cars, Ball Differentials are designed to be totally frictionless and smooth in action to provide effortless drive to the wheels on cornering, where the inside wheels must rotate slower than the outside wheels for controlled stability. Basically, the configuration of the Ball Differential is a number of small case hardened steel balls, spaced in a plastic cage that is in effect the drive gear for the axle. On each side of the gear are two hardened and tempered pressure plates that clamp over the steel balls, held in position by a screw through the centre of the assembly, incorporating a small thrust bearing and coil spring. The adjustment of this screw is crucial to the effectiveness of the differentials action. Too tight and the free movement of the diff is restricted. Too loose and the balls will slip on the plates when accelerating out of the corner, not only reducing drive, but damaging the balls and pressure plates … not good. The optimum setting is obviously somewhere in between and is where the small coil spring is important. It must be compressed, but not fully, to provide the desired exact pressure required. With a little practise setting up the diff become second nature. Patience is the word for this procedure. Lubrication of Ball Differentials is essential for that smooth operation and special greases have been developed that allow the balls to roll freely in the cage and push aside as they roll over the pressure plates. |
Hints and TipsElectric Motors for RC ModelsBrushless Motor BasicsAll Brushless motors are rated by Kilovolts (KV) and is an indication of the revs per minute (RPM) that particular Motor can attain running freely, under no load conditions, per Volt of input. For Example: To calculate the Maximum RPM of a Motor listed at 4000 KV, connected to a 7.4 Volt Battery, simply multiply the two: 4000 x 7.4 = 29600 RPM. The two main types of Brushless Motors used in RC are Sensored and a Sensorless Motors. Sensored Motors can be connected directly using s cable, to the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC). The ESC is then able to monitor the performance of the Motor and regulate Current output, to attain smooth, controlled acceleration. Advance and Retard timing is made automatically by the ERSC to change torque when exiting corners and give you more RPM for long straights. Sensorless Motors can only be set manually for Advance and Retard timing and once that setting is made you have to stick with it. For obvious reasons, Sensorless motors are cheaper to buy than the Sensored type: Ideal if you just want to bash around in the back yard, but not so much if you are serious about your racing. Brushless Motors, need a reasonable amount of maintenance if they are to remain competitive. For top level racing I recommend you strip, clean and re-oil the bearings every 2 or 3 meetings (Check out our "get the best from your bearings" section). Gearing your motor correctly for any given track is always important. (Check out my Gearing tips on the Pinions Section of this site) A cool motor is an efficient motor. As your motor heats up towards the end of a race, it will loose efficiency. Gearing correctly can avoid this problem to some degree and simply following my simple guidelines, described in the aforementioned article can help you not only keep your motor running efficiently, but help you stay in front of your opposition. One last tip .. When re-building your Brushless Motor, to safely replace the Rotor, use a rolled up piece of paper and place it into the Can. This will protect your rotor against damage. Then carefully remove the paper before replacing the endbell. |
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