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Tamiya Honda S800 Racing - #58175 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric M-Chassis Model Car - M-02 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on June 4, 1996, this self assembly Radio Controlled Model, based on the short wheelbase M02 chassis, is of the Honda S800 racing car.
The first M-Chassis model, designated the M01, was released in 1994, specifically for the Rover Mini Cooper (#58149) as a Front mounted motor, Front Wheel Drive model. The M02 is exactly the opposite. Rear mounted motor, Rear Wheel Drive. The design is not without its problems however. The curious steering set-up isn't the best and the horizontally mounted friction mono shocks are next to useless for fine tuning. Changing these for oil filled versions and softer springs, improves the cars handling considerably. Like the majority of the radio controlled models produced by Tamiya around 80s and 90s the car disappointingly came with the plastic/nylon and sintered brass bush type bearings. If installed, the grease on these bearings collect dust and grit that actually abrades the shafts spinning in them, so if you do fit ball bearings at a later time they are sloppy on the shafts … not good … To avoid this problem, a full set of steel ball bearings should be installed on first build. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
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Tamiya Honda S800 Racing #58175 M-02 - Chassis |
Tamiya Honda S800 Racing #58175 M-02
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Buying a Used Tamiya Honda S800 |
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Hints and TipsEmergency Plastic Part RepairsIt always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on. So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now? Some kind of repair is your only option. The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner. What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic. Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break. Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side. When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much. With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish. |
Hints and TipsPainting a Lexan Body Shell.Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used. The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour and add some choice decals later. This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before and need some basic guidance. Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can. Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen. Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside. The next thing to do is clean it inside and out. Any small amount of impurity such as oil or grease could impair the adhesion of the paint. For this, fill a bowl with water and use a small amount of washing up liquid with a soft sponge. Never use a scourer. Rinse well to ensure no residue remains. Most Body Shells come with a set of sticky back paper masks for the windows etc that are positioned on the inside. If not supplied, you will have to either make your own, or use masking tape. Run your thumb nail around the edges of each mask to ensure contact … paint can creep into any open area and easily ruin your hard work, so please be vigilant. Tip: To protect against paint spilling out onto the outside of the body shell, use masking tape around the outside edges and wheel arches. Now you are ready to begin applying your paint. Find a well ventilated area and if spraying, use a breathing mask. Three or four sprayed, or at least two brushed layers are recommended allowing around thirty minutes between layers. Once the paint is fully dry, to protect the paint from scratching, spray or brush over it with one or two layers of clear plastic varnish. When the varnish is completely dry, carefully remove the window masks. If necessary, use a modelling knife to lift an edge to grasp between your thumb and finger … DO NOT RUSH. Decals can now be placed on your body shell. So they adhere better I recommend any square edges are rounded. This reduced the tendency for them to peel off. |
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