|
![]() |
Tamiya Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT - #58170 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TA-02W Chassis:Released by Tamiya on January 30, 1996, this TA-02W Chassis Based Radio Controlled Model, is of the Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT That raced in the 1995 Japanese Touring Car Championship (JTCC). The highly detailed lexan shell in this kit is an accurate representation of the cars racing lines. Decals of the Castrol livery are also provided.![]() The TA-02W (Wide) Chassis is basically a TA02 chassis with TA01 front Uprights, Wheel Axles and Kingpins. To widen the car, the hubs of all four wheels are repositioned. Similar to the basic TA-02 Chassis, the TA-02W is shaft driven four wheel drive, with orbital gear differential at the front and Ball differential at the rear. The suspension is four wheel independent double wishbone with plastic Coil Spring over Oil Filled shock absorbers. Many TA-02 owners consider the drive train to be poor and inefficient, also the ball diff often works loose, loosing drive. The kit comes with Plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts - if you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel, rubber shielded ball bearings. Rating: ![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
![]() |
Tamiya Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT #58170 TA02W - Chassis![]() |
Tamiya Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT #58170 TA02W![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Castrol Toyota Tom's Supra GT |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
Hints and TipsGearing to WinJust because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race. In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start? At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own and adjust your set-up to suit. Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive. Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost. Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition accelerating out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will always get you to the end of the race, but it will hardly ever get you on the winner's rostrum. Having said that, on tracks you don't know, initially it's always best to err on the side of low gearing. For your first practice laps on a new track, choose a motor that has a reasonable current draw and with a fully charged battery, try a race length run, learn the corners … what line to enter and exit, where you can accelerate to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake) the opposition. After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor loses efficiency … all this helps when selecting the right gearing.) Armed with this knowledge you can then consider how to alter your gearing. If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion … perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it. An overly hot motor and low remaining capacity battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less powerful motor. If the motor is hot, but not too hot, the battery has ample remaining charge and you did not notice any drop in efficiency towards the end of your practice run, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular motor. Depending on how competitive that set-up is, you can stick with it, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different motor to get you where you want to be. |
Hints and TipsDampersDampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks … call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model. In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track. In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as … "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." … In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track. So how do Dampers work?Out on the race track, the main thing you want to avoid is your car bouncing around all over the place, sliding, or even rolling over when you negotiate a tight corner. To prevent this you need to make changes, but before you make those changes you need to consider what your problem is for that particular track. How your model reacts when cornering … does it Under-steer? (Slide towards the outside of the corner) or Over-steer (Turns towards the inside of the corner). Does it react differently when you exit the corner to how it did when you entered it? Once you have decided what your problem is, go to our "Set-Up" page linked below and follow the step by step instructions. But remember to only make ONE change at a time. If the first suggestion isn't enough to cure the problem, add the second … and so on, until you find that perfect setting. Good luck and good racing. |
|
|