RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Team Associated T4.2 (RC10T4.2) Race Spec Truck.
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1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Associated RC10 T4.2 RS (Race Spec) - 7039 (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the T4.2 Race Spec


  Introduced by Team Associated in 2013, the 2WD RC10T4.2 RS (Race Spec) RTR - # 7039 - came with a Reedy 3300kV brushless motor, XP SC500-BL ESC and XP 2.4Ghz radio system.

  The T4.2 RS molded composite chassis, employs a gear type differential, V2 coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive shafts, slipper clutch, steel turnbuckles, a full set of ball bearings and factory-finished Interceptor-T polycarbonate bodyshell.

Team Associated T4.2 (RC10T4.2) Race Spec - 1:10 Electric RC Truck
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  To race the Team Associated T4.2 RS, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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★ Team Associated RC10T4.2 RS Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 RS Chassis

★ Team Associated RC10T4.2 RS Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4.2 RS Chassis


Buying a Used Team Associated T4.2 Truck (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Team Associated T4.2 Electric Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Team Associated website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Team Associated Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Team Associated models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Team Associated T4.2 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your T4.2 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your T4.2 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The T4.2 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Team Associated T4.2 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Team Associated Truck came with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your T4.2 model and good racing.




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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Roll Center

   One of the least understood settings on RC model cars is concept of roll center. The simple definition of roll center is a point in space that the chassis rolls from side to side as the car maneuvers around a corner.

   To calculate roll center you have to consider things like the height of the axles, the inside and outside camber link positioning, the length of the suspension arms and the location of their inside pivot point. Sounds complicated doesn't it and in truth it is.

   On all RC model cars, most of the cars weight is above the chassis and the center of gravity of the car is not only from front to rear, but also from top to bottom. This point is called the "true" center of gravity and is the point around which the weight of the car will want to roll from side to side, but it is the roll center of the chassis that the chassis will actually roll around, not the center of gravity.

   Once you have determined the positions of roll center and center of gravity, you can calculate the "roll moment". It is this that determines how easily the chassis will roll from side to side.

   But what does all this mean? I hear you ask. Well, it gives you some insight to what changing the position of your camber links can do to the way your car handles.

   Lowering the outside camber links, lowers the roll center, so conversely, raising the outside link position raises the roll center.

   Lowering the inside camber link position raises roll center and raising the inside camber link position, lowers the roll center.

   Any of these adjustments will affect the "roll moment" and therefore you have some control of body roll.

   The length of the camber link bars affects the speed of roll center change as the car driver around corners. Longer links increase the rate of change. Shorter links decreases the rate of change.

   Adjustments to the roll center will change the way the car reacts in a number of ways.

   Lowering the front roll center gives more steering under acceleration, but the car is less responsive. Ideal for smooth high grip tracks, with long sweeping corners.

   Raising the front roll center provides less steering when accelerating out of the corner, but the car feels more responsive and is less prone to traction roll. Best for high grip twisty tracks.

   Lower rear roll center improves grip under acceleration, but reduced grip when breaking. Helpful to avoid traction roll as you enter the corner and tracks with low grip to increase traction.

   Higher rear roll center gives you less under acceleration, but the car is more responsive. Works for high grip twisty tracks to reduce traction roll.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Tire Inserts

   Once upon a time, all RC model tires were equal they were all trash. None of the old tires had any kind of internal support, because the hard compound they were made of didn't need it. But that was before the newer soft compounds were developed. These new tires were so soft that if some kind of insert was not used they would just lay flat under the weight of the car. Thus, the new science of tire inserts was born.

   The basic soft foam inserts that come with many off-road rubber tires can be in one of two types. They can be basic rings of sponge, or the cheap and nasty strips of sponge. Both will often need some work done to them before they are inserted into the tires.

   Most of the top off-road drivers will carefully trim the edges of each sponge where they make contact with the inside of the tires. The idea is to reduce the effect of any hard edge when the tire hits the ground. If this is beneficial is debatable, but those I talked to said it does improve grip when cornering.

   On-road cars on the other hand have the luxury of only having to make the choice between hard, medium and soft, molded sponge or rubber inserts that fit snugly inside the wheels and I can testify, the effect of these inserts can make a big difference on the track.

   When you get to the race track, the first thing you check is the track temperature. This gives you an insight into which tire to try first. In my hay day, I would use three compounds, soft medium and hard, each prepared, glued to the wheels with soft, medium and hard inserts, so a total of nine sets of wheels with tires and inserts. Depending on the track temperature, my first practice session would be with the medium insert, then depending on the grip I got from those, I would either stick with them or for more grip try the softer insert. If the car had too much grip and a tendency to over-steer I would move on to the harder insert. Once the right tire and insert combination is found, only then I would try other settings to improve the cars handling. Remember, one change at a time.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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