Team Associated RC10T - 7001 / 7011 / 7014 - Radio Controlled Model

  Introduced by Team Associated in 1991, the RC10T Truck kit - # 7001 - was based on the highly successful RC10 Buggy, using the same formed "B" Stamp alloy plate chassis and ATC (Associated Torque Control) gearbox. Production of the original RC10T kit ended after only one year, when in 1992 it was replaced by the RC10T Sport - # 7011 - and RC10T Team - # 7014. Production of these models ended in 1996.

  The RC10T is based on a black anodised tub chassis, with a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, slipper clutch, ATC Stealth gearbox, servo saver and a full set of ball bearings (bushings for RC10T Sport and Team). Two sets of front wheels and tires (wide and narrow) were provided in the kits. Why? ... Narrow ribbed front tires were those preferred by racers at that time, then in 1992, the ROAR organisers, after discussions with the main RC car manufacturers, controversially decided to change the rules, effectively banning the narrow ribs and making equal width wide wheels front and rear compulsory for top level racing, so Associated simply added the wide wheels and tires to abide by the new rule.

Model Versions:

• #7001 RC10T Kit, less all electrical, with ball bearings
• #7011 RC10T Sport Kit, less radio system, with mechanical speed controller, motor and bushings
• #7014 RC10T Team Kit, less radio system, with Novak Booster ESC, motor and bushings

Features:

• Black anodized aluminum chassis tub
• Teflon coated gray shocks (gold anodised for Sport)
• Stealth A.T.C. Transmission
• Long dogbone drive-shafts
• Ball bearings (bushings for Sport and Team)
• High-torque ball differential
• Narrow and wide front tires (7001 kit only)
• Wide front A-arms
• A heavy duty servo-saver
• Anti-plow nylon front bumper
• Long travel fibreglass rear shock tower
• 3-piece truck class wheels
• Clear Lexan Stadium Truck body
• 1-piece rugged nylon bulkhead

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

How to put on Decals

   After spending lots of time and effort to paint your bodyshell, you come to the point where you make it look good by putting on all those flashy decals, but before you rush in with the scissors and start cutting, there are a few things you should do first.

   Good preparation is key to a perfect job, so before you do anything with your decals, you must first of all wash your hands, and then make sure the bodyshell is clean and no oil or grime from your previously grubby fingers remains on the Polycarbonate Lexan surface. Methylated spirits is the thing to use, or failing that, use one of those wipes you use for your computer monitor screen.

   As the body shell dries, you can carefully cut out the decals from the sheet. Do the big ones first and leave the smallest ones for last.

Roll Center

   One of the least understood settings on RC model cars is concept of roll center. The simple definition of roll center is a point in space that the chassis rolls from side to side as the car maneuvers around a corner.

   To calculate roll center you have to consider things like the height of the axles, the inside and outside camber link positioning, the length of the suspension arms and the location of their inside pivot point. Sounds complicated doesn't it - and in truth - it is.

   On all RC model cars, most of the cars weight is above the chassis and the center of gravity of the car is not only from front to rear, but also from top to bottom. This point is called the "true" center of gravity and is the point around which the weight of the car will want to roll from side to side, but it is the roll center of the chassis that the chassis will actually roll around, not the center of gravity.

   Once you have determined the positions of roll center and center of gravity, you can calculate the "roll moment". It is this that determines how easily the chassis will roll from side to side.

The Effect of Roll Center on your Car

   But what does all this mean? I hear you ask. Well, it gives you some insight to what changing the position of your camber links can do to the way your car handles.