Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Formula One Car Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on June 19, 2013, the 2WD TRF101 chassis kit has been designed for the ultimate RC F1 enthusiasts.

Tamiya TRF101 - 42252

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  The model is based on the F104 Ver.II chassis, with a longitudinal battery position. The rear suspension features a center pivot ball and L/R side links with pitch and roll dampers. Small adjustments can be made to the suspension with the use of different viscosities of oil and spring hardness.

  Other features include: 3mm Carbon Lower Deck, Lower Brace and Body Mount Plate, 2.5mm Carbon Front Upper Arm, 2mm Carbon Motor Mount Rear Plate, Alloy Motor Mount, Diff Housing, Suspension Mount, King Pin Mount and Servo Mount, Carbon rear shaft, plus many more refinements.


Rating: 45 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya TRF101 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252
Tamiya TRF101 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252
Tamiya TRF101 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252
Tamiya TRF101 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252
Tamiya TRF101 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF101 Chassis - 42252

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

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