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Tamiya Nissan 300ZX IMSA-GTO - #58091 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Racing Car - Group-C Chassis:Released by Tamiya on November 29, 1990, the Nissan 300ZX IMSA.GTO is a 1:10 Scale replica of the car driven by Steve Millen in the 1990 IMSA GTO Championship series.![]() The chassis for this car was a short wheelbase version of the one used for the Mercedes Benz C11 (#58088) which was later designated the "Group-C" chassis. The configuration of the "Group-C" chassis was similar in a number of ways to the F101, not least in that it employed a ball differential in place of the older Orbital Gear type. This gave the car improved stability when cornering and smoother, controlled acceleration out of the corner. Now considered relatively rare, used and NIB examples are occasionally available. Rating: ![]() |
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Tamiya Nissan 300ZX IMSA-GTO #58091 - Chassis![]() |
Tamiya Nissan 300ZX IMSA-GTO #58091![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Nissan 300ZX IMSA-GTO |
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Hints and TipsTires for RC ModelsSponge (Foam) Tires:If you are fitting new Tires on old rims, make sure the old sponge Tire is completely removed. To do this, I recommend using a wood lathe and apiece of wood, at least 300mm long and more than the width of your wheels, with medium grit emery paper stuck to it ... sand paper will also work, but emery is harder wearing ... This will also be used for truing a wheel. (Described later) How to Mount and Glue Sponge Tires onto Wheels/Rims.2/ I find this to be easier if either in the lathe, or on the car itself. (but be careful with that glue) Using your thumb and forefinger, lift up the Tire off the rim, then using a small spatula or a thin piece of rigid wood or plastic dipped in glue (I recommend Evo-Stik, Impact Adhesive) slip it in the gap, making sure both the Tire and the rim are smeared. Then lower the Tire back onto the rim and press it down. Turn the Tire approximately 60 degrees and repeat. 3/ Depending on the width of the Tire you may need to repeat the process on the inside also. How to True Sponge Tires.Sponge Tires will always wear unevenly, weather you race on Carpet or Tarmac. The outside wheels will always end a race smaller than the ones on the inside, so after each race I recommend swapping them over (unless you are fortunate to have a new set for each race) and dont forget to adjust the steering trim on your transmitter before the next race. 1/ Before starting, check each mounted Tire for diameter and order them smallest to largest. Start with the smallest and mount it in the lathe. 2/ Make sure you are wearing safety glasses before you start this procedure: Lay the sanding wood under the Tire so that it can be pivoted up from behind onto the Tire. Start the lathe spinning, so that as you stand infront of the Tire, it is rotating downwards. Slowly lift the sanding wood and try to hold it ridged as it comes up against the Tire. There will be a high point on the Tire that if you hold the bat rigid enough will eventually wear down until the Tire appears completely concentric. at this point stop the lathe and measure the diameter on the inside and outside of the width. If needs be, repeat the process until satisfied. Repeat for each Tire, matching them in pairs for diameter. If considered necessary also trim the sides. |
Hints and TipsBearingsIf you are serious about your racing, looking after your bearings is essential if you are to remain competitive. My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC. Shields: The main problem with Ball Bearing Shields is they create friction and obviously the more you can reduce friction, the more efficient your bearings will be, so here's a tip that does just that. Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, positioned side by side. If you think about it, the two inside shields on each bearing are not required, so ... you can remove them using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple. And in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction. Cleaning: All Bearings need to be cleaned from time to time. Depending on how focused and competitive you are, this can be as often as after each race meeting, or just once or twice a year ... For Club Meetings once or twice a year might be all you need if you are easily beating your competition, but for the BIG meets you need that extra 5% or 10% just to be up with the rest. What you need is a small glass jar, a jewelers screwdriver, an old tooth brush and some Isopropanol. Remove the shields, then drop the bearings in the jar, add some Isopropanol, pop on the lid and shake well. Empty them out, give them a good brushing and make sure they spin free then repeat the process. Clean the shields separately. Once you are satisfied, lay them on a piece of kitchen roll and allow to dry. Lubrication: The arguments I have had about what lubrication to use you wouldn't believe. Some of the top racers of my day swore they didn't use any at all, but cleaned out the original lubrication and ran them dry ... they also admitted to fitting a new set after each meeting ... well, they were getting them for free. My tip is, yes even with a new set of bearings, clean out the original lubrication (as described above) and with one shield in place use the thinnest oil you can find ... I recommend ZX1 (Zed Ex One) or sewing machine oil. |
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