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Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth - 58125 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Rally Car - TA-01 Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on September 21, 1993, this TA-01 Chassis based, self assembly electric RC model is of the Michelin Pilot Team Ford Escort RS Cosworth that raced in the 1993 WRC (World Rally Championships) Driven by Malcolm Wilson. The lightweight Lexan polycarbonate body shell in this kit is an accurate copy of the cars classic lines. Decals of the distinctive Blue and Yellow livery are included in the kit.

Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth - #58125 TA-01

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  The TA01 ABS bathtub chassis was developed in 1991 from the highly successful Manta-Ray and is shaft driven four wheel drive, with orbital gear differential at the front and Ball differential at the rear. The suspension is four wheel independent double wishbone with plastic Coil Spring over Oil Filled shock absorbers.

  The TA01 gained the reputation of being virtually indestructible. The only problem I found was with the motor mount screws working loose causing the plastic spur gear to be chewed up. To fix this I drilled the hole deeper, fitted longer screws and checked them after every run.

  The kit comes with plastic and sintered brass bush bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings.


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Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth #58125 TA-01 - Chassis
Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth #58125 TA-01 Chassis
Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth #58125 TA-01
Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth #58125 TA-01 Body Shell

Buying a Used Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth Electric Rally Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Rally Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Rally Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Michelin Pilot Ford Escort RS Cosworth model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks, and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it, and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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