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Tamiya Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special - #84265 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Buggy - HS Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on December 24, 2011, the Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special (#84265) is No.765 in the Limited Sale Series, based on the same chassis as Hotshot re-release (#58391) introduced in July 2007. The original Tamiya Hotshot kit (#58047) was introduced in April 1985.

  A pre-painted lexan bodyshell anda 540 motor are included, but a radio system, a battery, charger and speed controller are required to complete (specifications differ from country to country).

Tamiya Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special - #84265
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  The model is based on a molded plastic chassis, with front and rear bolt on gearboxes, gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled front and rear mono dampers and bushings.

  Like the vast majority of Tamiya models, the Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special comes with plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - our recommendation is that these should be discarded and replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

  To get the best from the Tamiya Hotshot 2007, it needs to be fine tuned to handle jumps under control and has enough grip to hug the corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style.


      Rating: 3.53.5 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.

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Tamiya Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special - Chassis
Tamiya Hotshot Chassis

Tamiya Hotshot 2007 - Metallic Special - Chassis
Tamiya Hotshot Chassis


Buying a Used Tamiya Hotshot
Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Tamiya Hotshot Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Hotshot is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Hotshot model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Hotshot Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Hotshot steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Tamiya Hotshot is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Hotshot model and good racing.


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Hints and Tips

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   A jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side is advisable. Using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Then with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough. Battery cells are notoriously very fragile and susceptible to the very high temperatures soldering requires. Anything longer than four or five seconds direct contact with the iron can cause damage to the crystal structure in the cell, so be wary.

   When you have solder on each end of each cell, line them up in the jig, positive to negative and dab a spot of flux on the soldered cells, then position your straps, with the solder coated side faced down, touching the solder on the end of the cell. Now place your hot iron on the strap. Heat will transfer through the strap and melt the solder on the two faces. Again, count to 3 and you should feel the strap drop slightly as the solder fuses with the solder on the cell. Repeat this for each cell on both sides to produce your desired configuration. Finally solder your two wires, previously prepared with connectors, to the pack. Do not solder wires with bare ends to your pack. If these wires were to touch and short out, you could effectively kill your expensive battery pack I use Red for positive and Black for negative, but so long as you know which is which electrical equipment does not like the battery to be connected the wrong way.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Tires for Off-Road RC Models


   If you only ever intend to race your Buggy, Truggy or Truck at your local track each week end, you will soon learn the best tire - insert combination for your particular model on that specific track surface type. But if you ever visit other tracks in your area, or move on to the national or international race meetings, at other tracks throughout the country, you will soon discover that your trusty setup will not work as well and you will be forced to invest in many more sets of wheels and tires.

   The choice of Off-Road tires available is mind boggling and the combinations of Mini-Pin, Micro-Pin, Block, Stud and Ribbed Tires, with all the various types of foam inserts available is a mine field, even for the more experienced.

   Local knowledge is always the place to start and the second visit made to any particular track is always better than the first, provided you keep good records of your tires, inserts and general set-up for each race.

Tires and Inserts for Jumps


   Most tracks for off-road RC models - indoor or outdoor, have at least one jump for you to negotiate and on a high number of tracks, it is how you land from that jump that will determine where you finish in the race.

   Setting the droop and adjusting the damper oil or coil spring tensions will go a long way to ensuring you land from the jump on all four wheels and keep control of your car as you exit the jump, but the correct choice of tire insert can also have an effect on how much grip you have when you land and accelerate to the next corner.

   As a rule of thumb, the higher the jump, the harder the foam insert needs to be. If the jump is long and not too high, a softer foam insert may give improved grip.

   Once you have determined the best tire combination and before you glue the tires to the rims, trial and error with different inserts on your practice laps before racing, can reap huge benefits.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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