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Tamiya Datsun 240Z Rally Version - #58459 (Radio Controlled Model)1/10 Scale Electric Rally Car - DF-03Ra Chassis:Released by Tamiya on February 24, 2010, this DF-03Ra Chassis based, Radio Controlled self assembly model is of the Datsun 240Z that won the East African Safari Rally in 1971.The Lexan body shell is a detailed representation of the 240Z Classic racing lines. Decals of the cars livery are included in the kit. ![]() Based on the DF-03 Buggy Chassis, the DF-03Ra touring car Chassis simply uses the basic DF-03 tub structure design and adds shortened wishbones and dampers. Designed specifically for off road driving, body-roll can be a problem, but the comparatively high ground clearance allows the DF-03Ra to handle moderately rough terrain and small jumps with ease. The shaft driven 4WD Chassis design employs two pressure plate ball differentials, coil spring over oil filled shock absorbers and comes with a full set of steel ball bearings. I have two pet hates with this cars configuration. The position of the steering servo is at the back of the tub Chassis requiring a long rod to connect it to the steering mechanism. Also the shotgun type stick battery has to be loaded from the underside of the chassis and is held in position by a plastic peg and split pin. Not the best designed Tamiya Chassis. Having said all that, driving the car on an undulating off road track was great fun and after tweaking the front and rear springs and changing the rear shock oil for something a little more viscose the car handled well but with slightly more body-roll than I prefer. To get the best from the Tamiya DF-03Ra Chassis, it needs to be fine tuned to drift around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our simple to understand, step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your driving style. Rating: ![]() |
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Tamiya Datsun 240Z Rally Version #58459 DF-03Ra - Chassis![]() |
DF-03Ra - Chassis![]() |
Buying a Used Tamiya Datsun 240Z |
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Hints and TipsEmergency Plastic Part RepairsIt always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on. So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now? Some kind of repair is your only option. The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner. What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic. Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break. Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side. When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much. With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish. |
Ball DifferentialsBall differentials were developed in the late 1980s to replace the high friction Gear differentials. Mainly used on Tamiya Touring Cars, Le-Mans and Formula One Cars, Ball Differentials are designed to be totally frictionless and smooth in action to provide effortless drive to the wheels on cornering, where the inside wheels must rotate slower than the outside wheels for controlled stability. Basically, the configuration of the Ball Differential is a number of small case hardened steel balls, spaced in a plastic cage that is in effect the drive gear for the axle. On each side of the gear are two hardened and tempered pressure plates that clamp over the steel balls, held in position by a screw through the centre of the assembly, incorporating a small thrust bearing and coil spring. The adjustment of this screw is crucial to the effectiveness of the differentials action. Too tight and the free movement of the diff is restricted. Too loose and the balls will slip on the plates when accelerating out of the corner, not only reducing drive, but damaging the balls and pressure plates … not good. The optimum setting is obviously somewhere in between and is where the small coil spring is important. It must be compressed, but not fully, to provide the desired exact pressure required. With a little practise setting up the diff become second nature. Patience is the word for this procedure. Lubrication of Ball Differentials is essential for that smooth operation and special greases have been developed that allow the balls to roll freely in the cage and push aside as they roll over the pressure plates. |
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