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Tamiya Chevy S-10 - #58146 (Radio Controlled Model Review)1/10 Scale Electric Truck - TA01/TA02 Chassis:Released by Tamiya on September 28, 1994, the Chevy S-10 was based on a mixed TA-01 and TA-02 ABS bathtub chassis.
For most drivers the hybrid chassis did not work well, particularly on the off road circuits. It was classed as weak and unable to support the internals. The plastic motor mounts often broke around the screw holes and in an off road scenario it picked up mud. The speed however was relatively good. Other racers found the car durable and most agreed that the truck was easy to maintain. The main problem with this truck is that it was front heavy, which made it impossible to jump even small bumps without nose-diving and rolling. Thankfully because of its durability it rarely broke in these situations, but in competition with other trucks it lacked the edge. The Chevy S-10 was never seriously made to jump and stadium racing on gravel or flat tarmac was where the truck ran more successfully. The TA-01/TA-02 ABS bathtub chassis is shaft driven four wheel drive, with orbital gear differential at the front and Ball differential at the rear. The suspension is four wheel independent double wishbone with plastic Coil Spring over Oil Filled shock absorbers. The kit comes with Plastic and sintered brass bush bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts. If you are building this kit to race seriously, these should be replaced by steel shielded ball bearings. Rating:  Reviewed by: RCScrapyard Manual.
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Tamiya Chevy S-10 #58146 TA01/TA02 - Chassis |
Tamiya Chevy S-10 #58146 TA01/TA02
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Buying a Used Tamiya Chevy S-10 |
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Hints and TipsDampersDampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks … call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model. In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track. In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as … "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." … In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track. So how do Dampers work?Out on the race track, the main thing you want to avoid is your car bouncing around all over the place, sliding, or even rolling over when you negotiate a tight corner. To prevent this you need to make changes, but before you make those changes you need to consider what your problem is for that particular track. How your model reacts when cornering … does it Under-steer? (Slide towards the outside of the corner) or Over-steer (Turns towards the inside of the corner). Does it react differently when you exit the corner to how it did when you entered it? Once you have decided what your problem is, go to our "Set-Up" page linked below and follow the step by step instructions. But remember to only make ONE change at a time. If the first suggestion isn't enough to cure the problem, add the second … and so on, until you find that perfect setting. Good luck and good racing. |
Hints and TipsPainting a Lexan Body Shell.Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used. The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour and add some choice decals later. This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before and need some basic guidance. Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can. Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen. Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside. The next thing to do is clean it inside and out. Any small amount of impurity such as oil or grease could impair the adhesion of the paint. For this, fill a bowl with water and use a small amount of washing up liquid with a soft sponge. Never use a scourer. Rinse well to ensure no residue remains. Most Body Shells come with a set of sticky back paper masks for the windows etc that are positioned on the inside. If not supplied, you will have to either make your own, or use masking tape. Run your thumb nail around the edges of each mask to ensure contact … paint can creep into any open area and easily ruin your hard work, so please be vigilant. Tip: To protect against paint spilling out onto the outside of the body shell, use masking tape around the outside edges and wheel arches. Now you are ready to begin applying your paint. Find a well ventilated area and if spraying, use a breathing mask. Three or four sprayed, or at least two brushed layers are recommended allowing around thirty minutes between layers. Once the paint is fully dry, to protect the paint from scratching, spray or brush over it with one or two layers of clear plastic varnish. When the varnish is completely dry, carefully remove the window masks. If necessary, use a modelling knife to lift an edge to grasp between your thumb and finger … DO NOT RUSH. Decals can now be placed on your body shell. So they adhere better I recommend any square edges are rounded. This reduced the tendency for them to peel off. |
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