RCScrapyard ► Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1. ITEM #58203 TA03R. - For Sale in The USA.

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Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 - #58203

1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car - TA-03R Chassis:

  This Tamiya TA-03R Chassis Based, Self assembly electric RC model is of the Nissan R390 GT1 that raced in the Le-Mans 24 hour race in 1997.
  The lightweight Lexan polycarbonate body shell in this kit is an accurate copy of the cars sporting lines. Decals of the livery are included in the kit. The Nissan 390 GT1 body shell was also released in 2012 on the TT-01E Chassis (#58544).
  The TA03 chassis was introduced in 1996 and is belt driven four wheel drive, with orbital Bevel Gear differentials front and rear that were upgraded to Ball differentials in the Pro spec models. The TA03R followed soon after, the R (Rear) is designating a mid chassis mounted Motor. The suspension is four wheel independent double wishbone with Coil Spring over Oil Filled shock absorbers.
  The original TA03 kit comes with Plastic/Nylon and sintered brass bush type bearings that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, actually wear into the metal drive shafts - if you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel, rubber shielded ball bearings.
      Rating: 3.53.5 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.


★ Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 - TA-03R ★
Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 - #58203 TA03R











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Tamiya #58203: For Sale in the USA

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Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 #58203 TA-03R - Chassis
Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 #58203 TA-03R Chassis
Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 #58203 TA-03R - Body Shell
Tamiya Nissan R390 GT1 #58203 TA-03R Body Shell

Hints and Tips

Keeping Notes

   If all you will ever do is go racing at your local track every week, then this article is not for you. However, if you ever look towards travelling around to different tracks around the country, or even the world, the value of keeping notes is all too obvious.

   Every time I raced in a regional or national competition meeting, I would make detailed notes, aided by a little local knowledge initially, and later fine tuned to suit my own driving style.

   My experience now means there are few, if any outdoor tarmac tracks within a 300 mile radius I haven been to, and my notes on motor, gearing, camber angles, shock settings, tire choice and what inserts work best for that particular track, amongst others, allow me to save valuable time on the finer points of car setup, that can be done in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table days before the meeting, instead of the often crippling heat, or the arduous conditions inside a wind blown tent.

   There are lots of methods for making notes on setup. The easiest perhaps is to download the blank pages often supplied by your cars manufacturer with a line drawing of your car and spaces for you to fill in as to the setting you prefer. Great if each time you go to a particular track the conditions are always constant. Notes made on a cold windy day will be little use on a hot sunny days racing on the same track.

   Manufacturers setup pages for their top drivers can also be useful as a starting point, but you should never take that setup as being the best there could ever be.

   So, the first note you should make is of the weather conditions. The wind and its direction isn't really what I am talking about, although it can have an effect on your cars handling, it is not something you can change your setup to handle. Track temperature and humidity are the main things to note. Not the average for the day, but for each round of racing. And note what tires you used, and how the car handled in each race. Detail everything that might be useful in the future, no matter how trivial.

   Note the motor used, and the gearing. Check the temperature of the motor after the race, how much charge is left in the batteries. You may have won the race, but there is always room for improvement your competitors will be doing just that.

   Every bit of information you compile will be useful for the next time you visit that particular venue. Weather forecasts these days are far more accurate than they used to be, so the adage "fore warned is fore armed" fits the bill. Simply search through your notes and find a day you raced with similar conditions to those forecast, and set up your car to suit. But don't stop there.

   The conditions may be the same as they were when you made your notes, but that doesn't mean you can't improve your setup. Your practice laps will soon prove if your previous setup was correct, or give you a basis for more fine tuning.

   If you want to be the best, you have to work at it. Success doesn't come easy. You can be the best driver around, but if your setup isn't perfect you will never step up onto the winners rostrum. My motto if you never try anything, you never do anything. And if you never do anything wrong, you aren't trying hard enough.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.



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Gear Differentials


   The Gear Differentials, commonly used in Tamiya Buggys, Trucks, Touring Cars, Monster Trucks and some of the early Tamiya Formula One and Le-Mans cars, are by design more robust than the high maintenance Ball Differentials.

   The configuration uses a main drive gear, fixed on each side of the drive axles, and either three or four small metal orbital bevel gears, in a plastic gear housing, providing the drive to each side of the car when cornering, to allow the inside wheel to rotate slower than the outside wheel.

   Maintaining your Gear differentials is crucial if your car is to be competitive. Regular greasing is required, preferably molybdenum grease with graphite flakes, smeared over the gear teeth. If neglected, the gear teeth grind and wear at a rapid rate, and will quickly fail, leaving you with a potentially expensive rebuild.

   For slower moving models such as Monster Trucks, Rock Crawlers, and budget end Off road Buggys, Trucks and On Road Drift and Touring Cars, where low friction differential action is not essential, Gear Differentials are ideal, providing drive to each wheel as required. However, for top level competitive racing ,On and Off Road, Ball Differentials are preferable. Admittedly, they require a little more maintenance, but the benefits on the track far outweigh the negatives of the old Gear diffs.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.




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