Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Rock Crawler:

Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender (2017) - 82056-4 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Introduced by Traxxas in 2017, the "Scale and Trail" TRX-4 Land Rover Defender Rock Crawler - # 82056-4 - came factory assembled RTR, with a choice of Red or Silver pre-painted Bodyshell, a XL-5 HV ESC, Titan 21T 550 Brushed Motor, Metal Gear Servo and TQi 2.4GHz Radio System. A Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   A Special Edition pre-painted Orange Bodyshell version was produced around 2018 and a Blue Bodyshell version in 2019.

   The 4WD model is shaft driven, on a front motor design steel frame chassis with floor pans and adjustable wheelbase, sealed limited slip T-Lock (remote locking) differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, hardened steel universal joint drive-shafts, slipper clutch, high/low transmission and a full set of ball bearings.

Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender Rock Crawler - 82056-4

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Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 (2017) Box ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 2017 Box
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 (2017) ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 2017
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 (2018) Special Edition ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 2018
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 (2020) Box ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 2020 Box
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 (2020) ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 2020
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 Chassis ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender Chassis
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender - 82056-4 ★
Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender
★ Traxxas XL-5 HV ESC and Titan 21T 550 Motor ★
Traxxas XL-5 HV ESC and Titan 21T 550 Motor

Buying a Used Traxxas Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Traxxas Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Traxxas website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Traxxas model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Traxxas models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Traxxas Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.



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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, Traxxas, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive

   More often installed on Off-Road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor.

   The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount.

   Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Wheel Camber - for cornering stability

   Camber is described as the angle of the wheel as you look at it directly from the front or rear of your car and if set correctly will improve your cars cornering ability considerably, by providing increased traction. This simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.

   Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards.

   First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race mode that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis.

   To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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