RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Thunder-Tiger TS-4N.
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags

1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:

Thunder-Tiger TS-4N (Radio Controlled Model Review)


Navigation: Sitemap  ▶  Manufacturers  ▶  Thunder Tiger

History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the TT TS-4N:


  Originally introduced by Thunder Tiger circa 1999, the 4WD TS4N Touring Car, was available 90% pre-assembled, with a PRO-12BZX engine, (later models were RTR with PRO-15 engine and radio system) and had a number of bodyshell options: TTR 6134-A - Alfa Romeo, TTR 6135-A - Mercedes-Benz, TTR 6136-A - Volvo S-40, TTR 6181-F - Mercedes-Benz, TTR 6186-F - Dodge Viper.

  The TT model was three belt driven, on a double deck chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, rear dogbone and front universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

Thunder-Tiger TS-4N Chassis
▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


  To race the TT TS-4N, it needs to be tuned to perfection for better stability, precise steering and provide enough grip to keep you on the track when going around tight bends at high speed. Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best Set-up to get you to the front and keep you there.

ebay









Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Items For Sale:






Flags

★ Thunder Tiger TS-4N ★
Thunder Tiger TS-4N

★ Thunder Tiger TS-4N Chassis ★
Thunder Tiger TS-4N Chassis


Buying a Used Thunder-Tiger TS-4N
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Thunder-Tiger TS-4N Nitro Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Thunder-Tiger website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Thunder-Tiger Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Thunder-Tiger models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Thunder-Tiger TS-4N is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your TS-4N model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your TS-4N Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The TS-4N steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Thunder-Tiger TS-4N is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Thunder-Tiger Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your TS-4N model and good racing.


▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Shock Mount Settings

   The combinations of Shock settings available on the majority of on and off road cars are far too many for this article to cover, so I will endeavour to explain some of the basics, that should give you some idea what these changes might achieve. Some of the settings suggested may not be available on all RC model cars.

   If you look at the lower wishbones of you model, you may see a number of holes alongside where the ball studs for the dampers are positioned. If you were to remove those studs on the rear wishbone and reposition them in the hole further out from the center of the car, the first thing you will notice is the ride height has dropped, this can be corrected by adding C spacers above the springs. The second thing you will notice is the shocks are more sluggish, this can be compensated by using thinner oil. If this adjustment is made on an off-road car, it can be advantageous for landing after big jumps, providing improved stability due to the increased hydraulic pack in the shocks (as described in my previous article). This setting can also improve the way cars handle small bumps and dips in the track, due to the softer static damping.

   Changing the mounting hole positions used by the dampers, on the wishbone or on the shock tower, will always change the angle the dampers lay. This angle is what changes the characteristics of the shocks in that they will react to different track types and conditions. The above example is just food for thought, for those looking to improve their cars handling in relation to any other settings, such as caster, camber, toe-in etc, they may have previously made on their car. The only way to really get to grips with this subject is through trial and error.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Servo Information

   Servos are found on all kinds of Radio Controlled Models. RC Touring Cars, Buggys, Trucks, Truggys, Monster Trucks, Rock Crawlers, Airplanes, Helicopters, Boats and Ships for Steering, Throttle Control, Rudder Operation and Wing Flaps.

   For complete RC beginners, choosing the right servo can be confusing, so here are a few tips to point you in the right direction.

   The standard, plastic bushed (bearings) type servos are fine to start with but come with plastic/nylon gears that can break easily in collisions. So, to protect your servo gears to some degree, make sure you have a good "servo saver".

   Servo Savers come in a number of forms and are often included as standard on some RC Models. The best ones, in my opinion, are those that use a small spring to absorb the shock of the crash and are simply fitted in place of the servo horn.

   For lightweight, small scale models, plastic geared servos are fine. But for medium to large scale RC models, I would recommend metal or titanium gear servos. These servos are by nature heavier and more costly than the plastic geared ones but are well worth the extra expense, for obvious reasons.

   Digitally controlled Servos use a microprocessor based controller board. They are generally faster, provide better torque and centralise more accurately than the older Analogue types, but again at a higher cost.

   As you advance in experience and skill, you might feel the need for something to match your lightning reflexes. Mos-FET, or simply FET Servos use Ball bearings and will provide the high speed response you crave, but at a price. However, if your budget will stretch to the higher cost, the improvement in performance can make a big difference.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.









On/Off Road
RC Models:

Radio
Equipment:

Accessories: