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1/10 Scale Nitro Buggy:
Thunder-Tiger SSB - TTR 6703-F*
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Introduced by Thunder Tiger in 2001, the 4WD SSB Buggy, was available 90% factory assembled ARTR (no Radio) - TTR 6703-F - or RTR (with a 27Mhz Radio System) - TTR 6703-F4. A pre-painted lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell and a PRO-15BX (P) Pull Start Engine were pre-installed for both versions.
A 2WD version of the SSB Buggy was also available - TLR 6708-F21G.
PLEASE NOTE: An F* indicates that the Model code varies in different parts of the world. Any F number shown in this section is simply an example of an actual code number found for this model in my research.
For other Thunder Tiger SSR models, check out our Thunder Tiger Archive.
The 4WD model is shaft driven (removed for the 2WD ver), on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, two-speed transmission, rear dogbones and for the 4WD version, front universal joint drive-shafts and dogbone prop-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.
To race the TT SSB, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.
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![]() ★ Thunder Tiger SSB Chassis ★
![]() ★ Thunder Tiger SSB Chassis ★
![]() ★ Thunder Tiger SSB Chassis ★
![]() ★ Thunder Tiger SSB Chassis ★
![]() ★ Thunder Tiger SSB Chassis ★
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Buying a Used Thunder-Tiger SSB Buggy (and What to look for)
Make a General Visual Inspection
Check the Body-Shell
If the body shell of your Thunder-Tiger SSB is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your SSB model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis. Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles
Examine the Drive System
The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Pinions and Spur Gears
Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. Steering Servo and Servo-Saver
Stabilizers
If body roll on your Thunder-Tiger SSB is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. Don't Forget those Bearings
▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼
Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide
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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.
At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive
More often installed on Off-Road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor. |
Hints, Tips and Information
Damper Pistons
When you first build your RC model, you will sometimes find that there are a number of different pistons in the kit, with varying numbers of holes or hole sizes in them. Generally, the manufacturer will suggest one particular piston in the car manual, and may provide you with a mid range oil weight, but depending on the type of terrain you intend to race your model, their suggestion may not be the best for your needs. |
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