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1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:Team Magic G4-JR - TM 502088 (Radio Controlled Model)Navigation: Sitemap > Manufacturers > Team Magic All Manufacturers: Model Types > On Road > 1/10 Nitro On Road History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Team Magic G4-JR:Introduced by Team Magic circa 2008, the 4WD G4JR - TM 502088 - came RTR with an engine and radio system. The model was belt driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with front and rear gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings. A G4JR Combo version - # TM 502088C - with a starter-box, was also available. 
To race the Team Magic G4-JR, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning. Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your G4-JR. Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers do to improve the efficiency of their Team Magic G4-JR Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips. |
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★ Team Magic G4-JR ★ ★ Team Magic G4-JR Chassis ★ ★ Team Magic G4-JR Chassis ★ |
Buying a Used Team Magic G4-JR |
Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future. |
Hints and TipsPainting a Lexan Body Shell.Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used. The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour and add some choice decals later. This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before and need some basic guidance. Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can. Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen. Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside. The next thing to do is clean it inside and out. Any small amount of impurity such as oil or grease could impair the adhesion of the paint. For this, fill a bowl with water and use a small amount of washing up liquid with a soft sponge. Never use a scourer. Rinse well to ensure no residue remains. Most Body Shells come with a set of sticky back paper masks for the windows etc that are positioned on the inside. If not supplied, you will have to either make your own, or use masking tape. Run your thumb nail around the edges of each mask to ensure contact … paint can creep into any open area and easily ruin your hard work, so please be vigilant. Tip: To protect against paint spilling out onto the outside of the body shell, use masking tape around the outside edges and wheel arches. Now you are ready to begin applying your paint. Find a well ventilated area and if spraying, use a breathing mask. Three or four sprayed, or at least two brushed layers are recommended allowing around thirty minutes between layers. Once the paint is fully dry, to protect the paint from scratching, spray or brush over it with one or two layers of clear plastic varnish. When the varnish is completely dry, carefully remove the window masks. If necessary, use a modelling knife to lift an edge to grasp between your thumb and finger … DO NOT RUSH. Decals can now be placed on your body shell. So they adhere better I recommend any square edges are rounded. This reduced the tendency for them to peel off. |
Hints and TipsSlipper Clutch and Hydra-DriveMore often installed on off road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor. The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount. Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference, but normally the way to do this is from a standing start, jamming on the throttle and simply getting the feel of the car for that particular surface, being grass, gravel or dust. Personally I adjust it to give me around a metre and a half slip, before it achieves full drive. Wear on the slipper clutch is natural and often has to be readjusted after each race. The Hydra-Drive, or Fluid Coupling design has actually been around since the 1950s, but only came to RC a couple of years after the introduction of the slipper clutch. In principle, the Hydra-Drive is supposed to give similar results to the slipper clutch but need less continuous adjustment. In practice, for me anyway, it was not easy to live with. Hydra-Drives employ two independent impellers, immersed in silicone oil and enclosed in a sealed housing. Again, like the slipper clutch, one impeller is fixed to the spur gear, the other the drive. As power is applied, the spur gear will spin its impeller, until through the oil, drive is picked up by the drive impellor. The only real way to adjust the drive was to change the oil viscosity, or in some, the gap between the impellers could be adjusted by shims. All this took time and as far as I am aware, the Hydra-Drive is no longer used in RC. |
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