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1/8 Scale Electric Buggy:

Redcat Racing Tsunami Sand Rail (Radio Controlled Model)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Tsunami:


  Introduced by Redcat Racing circa 2013, the 2WD Tsunami Pro Sand Buggy, also known as the Tsunami Sand Rail, was available RTR with a brushless motor, ESC, 2.4Ghz radio system and battery.

  The model was based on a frame chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and ball bearings.

Redcat Racing Tsunami - 1:8 Electric RC Sand Buggy
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  To race the Redcat Tsunami, it calls for fine tuning to attain better steering response and improve grip when cornering so you don't slide off the side of the track. Minute changes can make huge advancements. Our easy to understand list will show you how and lead you to the optimum Set-up to put you in front of the rest on the track.

  We give you all the basic information you need to guide you to the best Electric Motor for your Tsunami and achieve the best Gearing, to get you in front on the track and keep you there.

  Find out how the worlds top professional RC racers get improved efficiency from their Bearings employing a number of sensible ideas. Find the way to avoid Radio interference, and basic instruction on how to Charge your Batteries, so they will last longer and provide improved power.









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★ Redcat Racing Tsunami Buggy ★
Redcat Racing Tsunami Buggy


Buying a Used Redcat Tsunami Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Redcat Tsunami Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Redcat website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Redcat Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Redcat models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Redcat Tsunami is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Tsunami model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Tsunami Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Tsunami steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Redcat Tsunami is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Redcat Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Tsunami model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.





















★ Redcat Tsunami ★
Redcat Racing Tsunami - 1:8 Electric RC Buggy


Hints and Tips


Electric Motors for RC Models

Brushless Motor Basics

   Choosing the right Brushless motor for your needs can be a daunting task for those new to Radio Controlled Models. If you have a local club perhaps you could ask some of the more experienced members for their advice, but a little basic knowledge about the subject, so you know what questions to ask is always useful.

   All Brushless motors are rated by Kilovolts (KV) and is an indication of the revs per minute (RPM) that particular Motor can attain running freely, under no load conditions, per Volt of input.

   For Example: To calculate the Maximum RPM of a Motor listed at 4000 KV, connected to a 7.4 Volt Battery, simply multiply the two: 4000 x 7.4 = 29600 RPM.

   The two main types of Brushless Motors used in RC are Sensored and a Sensorless Motors.
   Sensored Motors can be connected directly using s cable, to the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC). The ESC is then able to monitor the performance of the Motor and regulate Current output, to attain smooth, controlled acceleration. Advance and Retard timing is made automatically by the ERSC to change torque when exiting corners and give you more RPM for long straights.

   Sensorless Motors can only be set manually for Advance and Retard timing and once that setting is made you have to stick with it. For obvious reasons, Sensorless motors are cheaper to buy than the Sensored type: Ideal if you just want to bash around in the back yard, but not so much if you are serious about your racing.

   Brushless Motors, need a reasonable amount of maintenance if they are to remain competitive. For top level racing I recommend you strip, clean and re-oil the bearings every 2 or 3 meetings (Check out our "get the best from your bearings" section).
   Gearing your motor correctly for any given track is always important. (Check out my Gearing tips on the Pinions Section of this site) A cool motor is an efficient motor. As your motor heats up towards the end of a race, it will loose efficiency. Gearing correctly can avoid this problem to some degree and simply following my simple guidelines, described in the aforementioned article can help you not only keep your motor running efficiently, but help you stay in front of your opposition.

   One last tip .. When re-building your Brushless Motor, to safely replace the Rotor, use a rolled up piece of paper and place it into the Can. This will protect your rotor against damage. Then carefully remove the paper before replacing the endbell.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Roll Center

   One of the least understood settings on RC model cars is concept of roll center. The simple definition of roll center is a point in space that the chassis rolls from side to side as the car maneuvers around a corner.

   To calculate roll center you have to consider things like the height of the axles, the inside and outside camber link positioning, the length of the suspension arms and the location of their inside pivot point. Sounds complicated doesn't it and in truth it is.

   On all RC model cars, most of the cars weight is above the chassis and the center of gravity of the car is not only from front to rear, but also from top to bottom. This point is called the "true" center of gravity and is the point around which the weight of the car will want to roll from side to side, but it is the roll center of the chassis that the chassis will actually roll around, not the center of gravity.

   Once you have determined the positions of roll center and center of gravity, you can calculate the "roll moment". It is this that determines how easily the chassis will roll from side to side.

   But what does all this mean? I hear you ask. Well, it gives you some insight to what changing the position of your camber links can do to the way your car handles.

   Lowering the outside camber links, lowers the roll center, so conversely, raising the outside link position raises the roll center.

   Lowering the inside camber link position raises roll center and raising the inside camber link position, lowers the roll center.

   Any of these adjustments will affect the "roll moment" and therefore you have some control of body roll.

   The length of the camber link bars affects the speed of roll center change as the car driver around corners. Longer links increase the rate of change. Shorter links decreases the rate of change.

   Adjustments to the roll center will change the way the car reacts in a number of ways.

   Lowering the front roll center gives more steering under acceleration, but the car is less responsive. Ideal for smooth high grip tracks, with long sweeping corners.

   Raising the front roll center provides less steering when accelerating out of the corner, but the car feels more responsive and is less prone to traction roll. Best for high grip twisty tracks.

   Lower rear roll center improves grip under acceleration, but reduced grip when breaking. Helpful to avoid traction roll as you enter the corner and tracks with low grip to increase traction.

   Higher rear roll center gives you less under acceleration, but the car is more responsive. Works for high grip twisty tracks to reduce traction roll.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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