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1/8 Scale Nitro Monster Truck:Ofna Dominator - # 14338 / # 14339 (Radio Controlled Model)Navigation: Sitemap > Manufacturers > Ofna All Manufacturers: Model Types > Monster Trucks > 1/8 Nitro Monster Trucks History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Ofna Dominator:Manufactured by Hobao and distributed by Ofna in 2002, the 4WD Dominator RTR Monster Truck - # 14338 - was also available 80% assembled - # 14339 - with a Hyper .21 engine. The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, rear dogbones, with front CVA universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings. 
To race the Ofna Dominator, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning. Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your Dominator. Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers do to improve the efficiency of their Ofna Dominator Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips. |
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★ Ofna Dominator Chassis ★ ★ Ofna Dominator Chassis ★ |
Buying a Used Ofna Dominator |
Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future. |
Hints and TipsGearing to WinJust because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race. In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start? At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own and adjust your set-up to suit. Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive. Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost. Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition accelerating out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will always get you to the end of the race, but it will hardly ever get you on the winner's rostrum. Having said that, on tracks you don't know, initially it's always best to err on the side of low gearing. For your first practice laps on a new track, choose a motor that has a reasonable current draw and with a fully charged battery, try a race length run, learn the corners … what line to enter and exit, where you can accelerate to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake) the opposition. After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor loses efficiency … all this helps when selecting the right gearing.) Armed with this knowledge you can then consider how to alter your gearing. If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion … perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it. An overly hot motor and low remaining capacity battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less powerful motor. If the motor is hot, but not too hot, the battery has ample remaining charge and you did not notice any drop in efficiency towards the end of your practice run, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular motor. Depending on how competitive that set-up is, you can stick with it, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different motor to get you where you want to be. |
Hints and TipsDampersDampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks … call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model. In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track. In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as … "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." … In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track. So how do Dampers work?Out on the race track, the main thing you want to avoid is your car bouncing around all over the place, sliding, or even rolling over when you negotiate a tight corner. To prevent this you need to make changes, but before you make those changes you need to consider what your problem is for that particular track. How your model reacts when cornering … does it Under-steer? (Slide towards the outside of the corner) or Over-steer (Turns towards the inside of the corner). Does it react differently when you exit the corner to how it did when you entered it? Once you have decided what your problem is, go to our "Set-Up" page linked below and follow the step by step instructions. But remember to only make ONE change at a time. If the first suggestion isn't enough to cure the problem, add the second … and so on, until you find that perfect setting. Good luck and good racing. |
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