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1/8 Scale Electric Buggy:

LRP S8 Rebel BXe - # 130305 (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the LRP S8 Rebel BXe:


  Introduced by LRP circa 2013, the 4WD S8 Rebel BXe RTR Buggy - # LRP 130305 - came with a brushless motor, ESC and 2.4GHz radio system.

  The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, anti roll bars, rear dogbones, with front CVD drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

LRP S8 Rebel BXe
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  To race the LRP S8 Rebel BXe, it calls for fine tuning to attain better steering response and improve grip when cornering so you don't slide off the side of the track. Minute changes can make huge advancements. Our easy to understand list will show you how and lead you to the optimum Set-up to put you in front of the rest on the track.

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★ LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis ★
LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis

★ LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis ★
LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis

★ LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis ★
LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis


Buying a Used LRP S8 Rebel BXe Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used LRP S8 Rebel BXe Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the LRP website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used LRP Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those LRP models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your LRP S8 Rebel BXe is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your S8 Rebel BXe model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your S8 Rebel BXe Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The S8 Rebel BXe steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your LRP S8 Rebel BXe is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used LRP Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your S8 Rebel BXe model and good racing.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.





















★ LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis ★
LRP S8 Rebel BXe Chassis


Hints and Tips

Aerodynamics

   It is commonly understood that weight improves traction. If you have ever seen TV coverage of any kind of full size motor racing, you will have heard the terms, aerodynamics and down force. Well, they also relate to small scale models in exactly the same manner.

   Bodyshell aerodynamics for RC model cars is a science in itself and the wrong one could loose you the race. Back in my day the shell to have for 1:10 on-road, was the Alfa Romeo 156. The bodyshell that came with my Schumacher SST kit was a Peugeot 406, but that soon went into the bin when I got the Alfa. The difference in performance was amazing, but it wasn't a patch on the Frewer, Ferrari F50. The rear wing on that bodyshell was phenomenal; it was the fastest thing on the track, great for club racing, but to my cost, illegal for top level racing. Regulations stipulate that the rear wing should be no higher than the roof of the car, the Frewer wing was way too high, so another one was relegated to the "do not use" box.

   Off-Road models also benefit from aerodynamics and downforce, but to a lesser extent than on road models. The rear wing provides good downforce for better rear end traction and is discussed in detail in one of my other articles.

   Way back in 1994, a company named Tenth Technology produced a 1:10 buggy called the Predator. The design of the car was innovative to say the least, with inboard laydown cantilever operated shocks and extra low, almost flat bodyshell. The most eye-catching element of the design was the wings. Not only did it have a nice large wing on the rear, it also had one of a similar size at the front. It was one of those cars where the idea seemed good and the car was fast very fast and did once win the British Championship. The problem was its fragility. Any small knock damaging the front wing, made it un-drivable.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Painting a Lexan Body Shell.

   Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used.

   The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour and add some choice decals later.

   This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before and need some basic guidance.


   Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can.

   Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen.
Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside.

   The next thing to do is clean it inside and out. Any small amount of impurity such as oil or grease could impair the adhesion of the paint.
For this, fill a bowl with water and use a small amount of washing up liquid with a soft sponge. Never use a scourer. Rinse well to ensure no residue remains.

   Most Body Shells come with a set of sticky back paper masks for the windows etc that are positioned on the inside. If not supplied, you will have to either make your own, or use masking tape. Run your thumb nail around the edges of each mask to ensure contact paint can creep into any open area and easily ruin your hard work, so please be vigilant.

   Tip: To protect against paint spilling out onto the outside of the body shell, use masking tape around the outside edges and wheel arches.

   Now you are ready to begin applying your paint. Find a well ventilated area and if spraying, use a breathing mask.
Three or four sprayed, or at least two brushed layers are recommended allowing around thirty minutes between layers.

   Once the paint is fully dry, to protect the paint from scratching, spray or brush over it with one or two layers of clear plastic varnish.

   When the varnish is completely dry, carefully remove the window masks. If necessary, use a modelling knife to lift an edge to grasp between your thumb and finger DO NOT RUSH.

   Decals can now be placed on your body shell. So they adhere better I recommend any square edges are rounded. This reduced the tendency for them to peel off.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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