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1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Losi XX-T CR - A-0071 / A-0072 (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Losi XX-T CR:


  Released by Losi in 1997, the 2WD Double-XT CR Truck - A-0071 - was based on a redesigned rear suspension system, plastic "G-Tunnel" molded chassis, similar to that found on the XX CR, with a ball differential, metal universal joint drive shafts, coil spring over oil filled dampers and came with a full set of ball bearings, hydra-drive and slipper clutch.

  A second version, the Double-XT CR Graphite Plus kit - A-0072 - was also produced, with a number of graphite composite, lightweight titanium parts and the new Dual-Disk slipper clutch.

Team Losi XX-T CR - 1:10 Electric RC Truck
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  To race the Losi XX-T CR, it calls for fine tuning to attain better steering response and improve grip when cornering so you don't slide off the side of the track. Minute changes can make huge advancements. Our easy to understand list will show you how and lead you to the optimum Set-up to put you in front of the rest on the track.

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★ Losi XX-T CR ★
Team Losi XX-T CR

★ Losi XX-T CR Chassis ★
 Losi XX-T CR Chassis


Buying a Used Losi XX-T CR Truck (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Losi XX-T CR Electric Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Losi website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Losi Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Losi models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Losi XX-T CR is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your XX-T CR model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your XX-T CR Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The XX-T CR steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Losi XX-T CR is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Losi Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your XX-T CR model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric. The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch. The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gears larger than 64dp gears, therefore it stands to reason that the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

   64dp and its metric equivalents are generally the choice of 1:10 electric on-road racers, because of its higher range of ratio options and smoother action in comparison to other sizes. On-road models are not as hard on the gears as off-road, so the weaker, small tooth size is not a problem.

   48dp and its metric equivalents tend to be preferred by 1:10 off-road racers, mainly because of their strength in comparison to the 64dp and smoother operation than 32dp. Off-road models need gears that can handle all the knocks and bangs, as well as heavy landings off high jumps.

   Setting your gears is the most important part of looking after your gears.

   Backlash is basically the gap between the teeth in mesh. The perfect gear setting must have a small amount of backlash. To achieve the best setting use a very thin sheet of plastic between the pinion and spur gear teeth as you press them into mesh. After tightening the motor mount screws, use your fingers to spin the spur gear and roll out the plastic sheet. If the setting is correct, there will be a small amount of movement (backlash) between the gear teeth before they catch. If the mesh is too deep, there will be no movement between the teeth, this will create friction and if you run them like this, they will grind together, wear and break. If the mesh is not deep enough and only the tips of the teeth are touching, the excessive backlash will soon damage and strip the tops off the teeth rendering the gears useless.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Toe Angle

   When you first build your RC model car, you will no doubt have made all the settings advised in the manufacturers' manual and will take it out on the back yard not thinking of things like camber, caster or toe-in I know I did. It's only when you get competitive that you start learning about these things and just what a big difference they can make to the handling of your car. One of the more effective of these adjustments is Toe-in.

   The term, toe-in, toe-out, or toe-angle, refers to the alignment of the front or rear wheels, when viewed from above and is easily adjusted via the track rods or turnbuckles that link to the steering mechanism or directly to the steering servo horn.

   Front toe-in reduces steering when entering a corner, but improves steering response on corner exit under acceleration. On the straights, toe-in will also improve the cars stability while accelerating.

   Front toe-out will improve steering on corner entry, but makes the car unstable under acceleration on the straights and on bumpy tracks. The usual recommendation is to have up to 1 degree of either toe-in or toe out.

   Rear toe-in is generally found as the standard setting on most on-road and off-road RC models.

   More rear toe-in provides the car with more power under-steer, as well as improved stability and rear end traction. This setting is recommended for low grip tracks.

   Less rear toe-in slightly reduces steering on corner entry, but improved steering under acceleration.

   To measure toe-angle, I used to use my trusty vernier callipers to measure the width at the front of the wheels and the rear of the wheels and using this information along with the diameter of the wheels simply calculate the angle. Or, you could alternatively use this data to draw a triangle on a sheet of paper and measure the angle with your trusty school protractor.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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