Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Drag Car:

Losi 22S - 69 Camaro - LOS03035T1 - Radio Controlled Drag Car



History and Info:

   Released by Losi in 2021, the 69 Camaro 22S Drag Car - LOS03035T1 - was developed specifically for "No-Prep Drag Racing", and came factory assembled RTR, with a screen printed Summit Red, lexan polycarbonate Bodyshell, per-installed Spektrum Firma 6500kv Brushless Motor, 100A Smart ESC and Spektrum SLT3 Transmitter and Dual Protocol Receiver. Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   The 2WD model is based on a 3mm alloy plate chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, universal joint drive-shafts, slipper clutch and a full set of ball bearings.

Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car - LOS03035T1

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   To get the best from the Losi 22S, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.







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★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis
★ Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis ★
Losi 22S - 69 Camaro Drag Car Chassis

Buying a Used Losi 22S
Drag Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Losi 22S Electric Drag Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Losi website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Drag Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Losi Drag Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Losi models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Losi 22S is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your 22S model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your 22S Drag Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Drag Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Drag Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Drag Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Drag Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The 22S steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Losi 22S is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Losi Drag Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your 22S model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Dampers

   Dampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks - call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model.

   In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks, and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track.

   In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as - "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." - In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track.



So how do Dampers work?

   Basically what you have is a small amount of silicone oil contained in a sealed cylinder. Through the centre of that cylinder is a metal rod, and on the end of that rod, a piston with a number of small holes in it. Pulling, or pushing the rod in and out of the cylinder, your will notice a certain amount of resistance as the oil is forced through the holes in the piston.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric.

   The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch.

   The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

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