RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Kyosho V-One R4SP. PureTen.
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1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:

Kyosho V-One R4SP - 31266 (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho V-One R4SP:


  Released by Kyosho in 2012, the PureTen V-One R4 SP - # 31266 - is a belt driven, double deck alloy plate chassis design, with 2-speed transmission, gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone driveshafts and a full set of ball bearings.

Kyosho V-One R4SP - 1:10 Nitro On Road Chassis
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  To race the Kyosho V-One R4SP, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.

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★ Kyosho V-One R4 SP Chassis ★
Kyosho V-One R4SP - Chassis

★ Kyosho V-One R4 SP ★
Kyosho V-One R4SP - Gearing


Buying a Used Kyosho V-One R4SP
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Kyosho V-One R4SP Nitro Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kyosho V-One R4SP is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your V-One R4SP model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your V-One R4SP Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The V-One R4SP steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kyosho V-One R4SP is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your V-One R4SP model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Driving On Road

   The basic driving style most commonly used for all forms of on road, tarmac and carpet racing, involves using the full width of the road available and cutting each apex as tight as possible, whilst keeping complete control of the car on the track. The style, often referred to as "Rounding" looks quite simple to those watching, but to get it right needs good hand eye coordination and lots of practice.

   Consider a 180 degree turn. Start with the car positioned towards the outside of the track, then as you approach the corner brake hard and as smooth as you can, guide the car across the point of the apex, gently sweeping round until you are approximately 75% around the corner. At this point, gradually increase the throttle out of the corner, maintaining control and guiding the car to the opposite outside line. By the time the car is straight on the track, you should be at almost full throttle, before you brake hard again for the next corner.

   Developing this driving style comes in stages. Don't try to run before you can walk, install a low powered motor and practice, practice, practice until it becomes second nature. Then, as your skills improve, try something with a little more power.

   Initially set your transmitter to aggressive breaking and gradually reduce this as you get the feel of the car around the corner. Remember, the faster you enter a corner, the faster you exit it.

   When you first try out this style in a race, be patient, keep the car smooth and controlled. Remember the story about the hare and the tortoise? Well, believe me, when you first start in RC, it works.

   To make this driving style work, the car needs to have the right tires, inserts and a low centre of gravity, low body-roll set-up. Grip is the keyword in this instance, without that, your car will slide out of control and you will loose the race.

   If the style you are looking for is to drift slide your car around the corners, I would recommend you perfect the rounding style first, then check out my other hints and tips to learn how.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Droop

   When you pick up your RC model car, the suspension arms naturally drop, this is termed as Droop and should be equal from side to side, but can vary from front to rear.

   Setting the amount of droop, or suspension movement, can dramatically change the handling of your car by limiting the transfer of weight from one side of the car to the other.

   Basically, increasing the droop at the rear of the car can improve cornering grip at the front and increasing droop at the front of the car, improve cornering grip at the rear. The amount of effectiveness of this setting does in general depend on a number of other setting factors your car may have to suit your personal driving style. Also, adding any droop will increase body roll.

   Off road models obviously have the need for more droop than On road cars, especially on bumpy tracks where a large amount of suspension movement is needed to simply keep the wheels on the track, or the car will become unstable and un-drivable. Lower droop settings for smoother, high grip tracks on the other hand can be advantageous, but don't overdo it.

   On road cars can achieve good results from small changes in droop, on tarmac and on carpet. In general they are also easier to adjust for droop than their off road cousins.

   Limiting the amount of droop can be achieved in a number of ways, but by far the easiest is more often seen as a standard setting option for On road cars and is achieved by simply turning a screw, located on the suspension arms, that comes up against the chassis.

   For Off road models and those On road cars that do not have the above option, droop can be set by positioning a specific length of plastic tube over the damper shaft, just below the piston this of course means stripping and rebuilding each damper with the new setting, which can be messy, especially in the middle of a field. Some of the top drivers used to get around this by simply having a number of different sets of shocks, with all the settings they might need, but for us mere mortals, this of course isn't a realistic option.

   If you are close to what you consider to be your optimum droop setting, you can fine tune this by simply screwing on or off the plastic ball connector at the end of the shock shaft. You could also have different length ball connectors that you could easily change.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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