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1/10 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:Kyosho Super-Sport Ten EP - # 30742 B / # 30741 B (Radio Controlled Model)Navigation: Sitemap > Manufacturers > Kyosho All Manufacturers: Model Types > On Road > 1/10 Electric On Road History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):Released by Kyosho in 1998, the 2WD Super Sport 10 EP series was classed as an entry level model, based on the proven Outrage / Tracker chassis design. Two Electric models were available: # 30742 B - Subaru Impreza, # 30741 B - Repsol Ford Escort. The model was based on a molded Kelron plastic chassis, with a gear differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, bushings, ring type bearings and came already equipped with a 540 motor and rotary speed controller. ![]() To race the Kyosho Super-Sport Ten EP, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements. With simple to follow language, we can point you towards the correct Electric Motor for your Super-Sport Ten EP and achieve the best Gearing, for your battery and motor combination. Learn the secrets the professionals have known for years to get the best from their Bearings using a number of simple tips. See how you can easily avert Radio interference, and the best way to safely Charge your Batteries, for improved acceleration and more run time. |
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![]() ★ Kyosho Super-Sport Ten EP - Repsol Ford Escort ★![]() ★ Kyosho Super-Sport Ten EP - Subaru Impreza ★![]() |
Buying a Used Kyosho Super-Sport Ten EP |
Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future. |
Hints and TipsOn Road Indoor Carpet TiresSome indoor carpet tracks do not allow you to use anything but foam tires. The reason being the wear on the carpet some soft rubber tires, such as Proline Hawgs and Schumacher pin-spikes can create. But on some tracks, where a combination of carpet and wooden board is used, rubber tires may be allowed. Sponge or Foam TiresBasically there are three foam compounds available: Soft, Medium and Hard. Soft foam tires will normally provide the best grip on most carpeted tracks, but wear faster than other compound tires. They also wear unevenly. Cornering always puts more stress on the outside wheels, so naturally they will wear more. Therefore, in an effort to even out that wear, the wheels must be swapped over from side to side after each race and re-trued before the next race meeting. Incidentally, if you are looking to learn or hone your drifting skills, try a set of hard compound foam tires. They may not be the best tires to win races on a carpet track, but the fun level is brilliant. Foam Tire AdditiveMost indoor carpet tracks allow some kinds of tire additive, but not all. One guy at our local track, used to dip his foam tires in a glass of light ale. Although this form of additive may seem a little odd, there are a high number of weird and wonderful concoctions used by racers in the RC world and just as many available commercially, most of which will improve grip … if that is what you want. Rubber Tires for Indoor TracksUnlike outdoor racing where track temperature comes into play, indoor tire choice is comparatively easy. On tracks where rubber tires are allowed, with a combination of carpet, board or other surface type, the choice of tire is generally determined by the areas of track where the grip is least. Local knowledge on these tracks is always helpful as a starting point, but don't always accept any suggestions as being the best. Trial and error, on your practice laps, before racing begins in earnest, can often highlight a different tire more suited to your particular driving style. Also check out my article for On-Road Tarmac Tires. |
Hints and TipsSlipper Clutch and Hydra-DriveMore often installed on off road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor. The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount. Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference, but normally the way to do this is from a standing start, jamming on the throttle and simply getting the feel of the car for that particular surface, being grass, gravel or dust. Personally I adjust it to give me around a metre and a half slip, before it achieves full drive. Wear on the slipper clutch is natural and often has to be readjusted after each race. The Hydra-DriveThe Hydra-Drive, or Fluid Coupling design was actually designed in the 1950s, but only came to RC a couple of years after the introduction of the slipper clutch. In principle, the Hydra-Drive is supposed to give similar results to the slipper clutch but need less continuous adjustment. In practice, for me anyway, it was not easy to live with. Hydra-Drives employ two independent impellers, immersed in silicone oil and enclosed in a sealed housing. Again, like the slipper clutch, one impeller is fixed to the spur gear, the other the drive. As power is applied, the spur gear will spin its impeller, until through the oil, drive is picked up by the drive impellor. The only real way to adjust the drive was to change the oil viscosity, or in some, the gap between the impellers could be adjusted by shims. All this took time and as far as I am aware, the Hydra-Drive is no longer used in RC. |
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