Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:

Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1997, the PureTen GP Spider MKII Touring Car chassis was available 2WD, and 4WD with a number of bodyshell options: # 31832 AMG Mercedes GP (2WD) - # 31831 McLaren F1 GP (2WD), # 31714 - AMG Mercedes Benz (4WD), # 31803 - Ford Escort (4WD), # 31804 - The Circuit Wolf - Lotus Europa Special (4WD), # 31935 - Calsonic Skyline (4WD), # 31921 - Dodge Ram (4WD), # 31801 - Mitsubishi EVO-V (4WD), # 31802 - Subaru Impreza (4WD), and # 31934 - Dodge Viper (4WD), all of which are covered in our Kyosho Archive.

   The alloy plate and newly designed top deck chassis, employs gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers (SS Racing), dogbone drive-shafts and ball bearings. Both 2WD kit versions and 4WD Dodge Ram and The Circuit Wolf, that came with a GS-11R engine. All the remaining 4WD kit versions came with a GS-11X engine.

Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To race the Kyosho GP Spider MkII, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning.







Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - AMG Merc ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII AMG Merc
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - McLaren F1 GTR ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII McLaren F1 GTR
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis
★ Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII - Chassis ★
Kyosho PureTen GP Spider MkII Chassis

Buying a Used Kyosho GP Spider MkII
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho GP Spider MkII Nitro Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho GP Spider MkII is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your GP Spider MkII model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your GP Spider MkII Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The GP Spider MkII steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho GP Spider MkII is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your GP Spider MkII model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Tires for RC Models

Sponge (Foam) Tires

   Sponge Tires can be purchased either pre mounted, glued and trued on the rims, or separately. Fitting the Tires onto the rims can be messy, so here are a few tips to make it a bit easier.
   If you are fitting new Tires on old rims, make sure the old sponge Tire is completely removed. To do this, I recommend using a wood lathe and apiece of wood, at least 300mm long, and more than the width of your wheels, with medium grit emery paper stuck to it ... sand paper will also work, but emery is harder wearing ... This will also be used for truing a wheel. (Described later)

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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