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RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:

Kyosho Lazer Alpha - 3036 (Radio Controlled Model)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho Lazer Alpha:


  Released by Kyosho in 1992, the Lazer Alpha - # 3036 - 4WD off-road racer, was belt driven, with a molded plastic chassis, gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, front and rear dogbone drive-shafts, metal ring type bearings and came with a 540 electric motor and mechanical speed controller.

Kyosho Lazer Alpha - 1:10 Electric RC Buggy
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  To race the Kyosho Lazer Alpha, you need to tweak and adjust all you can to give your car improved handling, stability and grip to ease around the curves and keep you on the track. One little setting change can transform your car into a world beater. Just follow our chart to attain the most favourable Set-up to suit your particular needs on any track.

  Learn what to look for when you search for the right Electric Motor for your Lazer Alpha and achieve the best Gearing, for the best performance and put you on the winners rostrum.

  See how the highest level racers optimise and halve the friction of their Bearings with some easy to implement tips. Discover what you can do to avert Radio interference, and the optimum conditions to Charge your Batteries, to help keep them in good condition and give you excellent performance.









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Items For Sale:






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★ Kyosho Lazer Alpha Chassis ★
Kyosho Lazer Alpha Chassis


Buying a Used Kyosho Lazer Alpha Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Kyosho Lazer Alpha Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Lazer Alpha is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Lazer Alpha model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Lazer Alpha Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Lazer Alpha steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kyosho Lazer Alpha is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Lazer Alpha model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Anti Squat

   Described as the angle at which the suspension arms pivot in relation to the chassis, Anti Squat effects traction under acceleration.

   Considered to be at its most effective from a standing start, the handling and stability of the majority of modern day On Road and an increasing number of Off Road models, can be improved with a certain amount of anti squat, normally no more than around 3 degrees.

   Basically, more anti squat gives you more traction, but after a certain point, that advantage is lost and the car will become unstable when turning into high speed corners. For Off Road models anti squat can also improve how the car handles on bumpy tracks.

   Less anti squat allows the car to drop at the rear under hard acceleration, providing less traction, but more stable when cornering. If no anti squat is present, with the lower suspension pivot shaft being parallel to the chassis, steering will be sharp and can induce some over-steer.

   Most manufacturers have some anti squat on their car kits provided as standard and hop-up parts are generally available to change the anti squat angle, but more often, on a wide range of models, all that is needed is a washer or two under one side of the suspension pivot block. However, if the block is held in position using self tapping screws, it may be prudent to change them for slightly longer ones.

   If you are thinking of trying a different setting on your car, not just for anti squat, always remember to only make one change at a time. Too many changes to your set-up made at one time, can make it difficult, if not impossible, to determine which change you made gave you the result you desired.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Tires for RC Models

Rubber Tires:

   Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totally serious about your racing, tires should be glued to the rims.

   You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) for varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars and varying pin sizes for carpet and Off Road racing Buggys and Trucks.


How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.

   Before mounting your Tires, I would recommend talking to the more experienced racers at your local club, as to what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before.

1/   Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims.

2/   You will need strong fingers to pull and maneuver the Tires over the rims, so you may need the help of an adult. I would recommend NOT using metal Tire levers or a spoon as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later.
   The technique I recommend, is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spigot making sure the sponge (or rubber) insert is not trapped and positioned centrally.

3/   You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires in position. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race.
My recommendation is to glue them.
   Superglue is the thing to use. To do this, carefully pull the beading out of its seating, put on a spot of glue, then quickly push it back down. repeat this at least 6 times around each side of the wheel.
Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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