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1/8 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:Kyosho Landmax (Radio Controlled Model)Navigation: Sitemap > Manufacturers > Kyosho All Manufacturers: Model Types > On Road > 1/8 Nitro On Road History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho Landmax:Released by Kyosho circa 1997, the Super Eight GP20 4WD Chassis Series (also known as Landmax) was available in the following kits - # 31771 Mitsubishi Lancer - # 31772 Ford Escort - # 31773 Subaru Impreza - # 31982 Ford F-150 - # 31871 Volvo S40 - # 31981 Toyota Corolla - # 31872 Alfa Romeo - # 31983 Altia Skyline - # 31983 Lancia Stratos. 60% pre assembled, the shaft driven, alloy plate chassis, has 3 x gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings. ![]() To race the Kyosho Landmax, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style. Our simple guide explains "run in" and what to look for as you tune the Nitro Engine for your Landmax. Using plain language, our guide will show you how to avoid Radio interference, and Servo Twitch, by positioning your radio receiver and implementing the latest innovations. Find out how to reduce friction and improve the performance of your Kyosho Landmax Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips. |
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![]() ★ Kyosho Landmax ★![]() |
Buying a Used Kyosho Landmax |
Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future. |
Hints and TipsGlow PlugsNitro Engines for RC Models, use a system to ignite the fuel mixture, that simply employs a wire coil in a small housing called a Glow Plug. To start the engine, a battery powered Starter, or Glow Igniter is connected to the Glow Plug and electric current heats the coil to white hot, so that when you pull start your engine, the air - fuel mixture in the cylinder is ignited. With the engine now running, the starter is no longer required. Heat generated under compression is enough to keep the coil element hot enough to keep the engine running. At some point, the Glow Plug originally supplied with your Engine will invariably burn out, so you will have to purchase a replacement. If your engine isn't too old you should be able to obtain a similar one, but if the manufacturer is no longer in business you may have a problem. If you still have the instruction book that came with your engine you may find there are a number of optional plugs available. Most Plugs generally have a code, indicating the plug elements effective operating temperature. These codes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so be wary if you need to consider a plug from a different Manufacturer than that of your engine. Basically, Smaller engines run better with Hot Plugs and Larger engines prefer Cold. Nitro fuels for RC engines normally have between 10 to 40 percent Nitromethane (CH3NO2). If you use fuel with a high proportion of Nitro, err towards Cold Plugs. Less Nitro, Hot. For example, For a .12ci (2.1cc) Nitro Engine, burning High percentage nitro fuel, a mid range plug would be best for performance. While a .21ci (3.5cc) Engine, with Low percentage nitro fuel, would prefer a Hot Plug. One more thing you may at some point consider when determining the right plug, is the compression ratio of your engine. By removing one of the Head shims you can Increase the compression. More shims, Lower compression. This option is not something I would recommend to those with little knowledge, so if you want to try this please be sure to ask someone with more experience before risking your expensive engine. High compression ratio engines run better with Cold Plugs. Conversely, Low compression ratio engines need Hot Plugs. If for some reason you use the wrong plug, you will soon know by how the engine runs. With too Hot a Plug, the engine will overheat and could damage your engine. If you hear the engine miss fire at high revs and you see pit marks on the cylinder head and piston, try either a cooler plug, add a shim to the head, or lower percentage Nitro fuel. If your Plug is too cold, your engine will idle poorly, lose acceleration and top speed. You will also notice the smell of fuel from the tail pipe. However, be wary, this could also be because of a rich fuel mixture. |
Hints and TipsRechargeable Batteries |
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