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1/8 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy:

Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports - 31354 (Radio Controlled Model)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports:


  Released by Kyosho in 2006, the 4WD Inferno ST US Sports ReadySet - # 31354 - is shaft driven, with an alloy plate chassis, gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and prop-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports
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  To race the Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports, it needs to be tuned to perfection for better stability, precise steering and provide enough grip to keep you on the track when going around tight bends at high speed. Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best Set-up to get you to the front and keep you there.

  Our basic instructions will help you set-up and fine tune the Nitro Engine for your Inferno ST US Sports.

  With a few simple tips, we will show you how to easily avert Radio interference, and Servo problems, by simply repositioning the receiver or using some of the latest developments. Learn how to combat friction and get more from your Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.









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★ Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports ★
Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports

★ Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports Chassis ★
Kyosho Inferno ST US Sports Chassis


Buying a Used Kyosho Inferno ST Truck (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Kyosho Inferno ST Nitro Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Inferno ST is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Inferno ST model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Inferno ST Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Inferno ST steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kyosho Inferno ST is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Inferno ST model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Truck, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Bumpsteer

   In plain language, Bumpsteer is exactly what it sounds like. If your car goes over a bump, it will affect the toe-in setting and can on some tracks make handling of the car in a straight line difficult.

   To check if your car might have any problems with bumpsteer, have it in race mode, with the motor and battery etc in position. Place the car on a flat surface and push down your car at the front. Looking down from above, keep a close eye on the wheels and watch for any angular movement to the side. If there is then you have bumpsteer.

   For off road cars, because of them having longer dampers in comparison to on road, a small amount of toe out is considered by many as acceptable in the lower position and can sometimes be used as a tuning option because of its aggressive effect on turning ability when entering corners. On road cars, because of the shorter damper movement and the greater need for precise steering and stability in a straight line, generally have less of a problem. However if bumpsteer is detected, drivers generally try to eliminate this as much as possible.

   The standard settings for most kits from all manufacturers are adjusted to reduce bumpsteer as much as they can and it is only when you come to make changes to those settings yourself, to suit your personal driving style that bumpsteer can become a problem.

   Any changes you might make to the steering links or the caster could induce some bumpsteer, so you should check for it each time you make any adjustments in these areas.

   To adjust bumpsteer try adding or removing washers under each steering link outer ball stud. More washers will increase and fewer washers reduce bumpsteer.

   Steering geometry can be tricky to setup for those new to the sport and even some more experienced racers can struggle with this problem. So, unless you are having major problems with your cars handling, try to avoid making any radical changes and if you do, remember to only make one change at a time and make a note of it for future reference, incase you need to remove it.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Wings

   When you think of the Wing or the spoiler on any RC model car, you immediately think of down-force, but which wing is best for your model and what setting should it have?

   When you first build your car, most drivers will cut out the wing supplied in the kit, put it on the car and forget about it. It's only when the new kid at your local track, starts beating you that you begin thinking about changing a few things to make your car faster and one of the easiest changes you could make is to your wing.

   Choosing a wing for off-road can be confusing, so first of all you need to understand just what your wing can do for the way your car handles. Down-force equals traction and traction is what you need for controlled acceleration. The correct wing on your car can give you a good proportion of that down-force and if it has high side panels, it can also improve cornering and straight line stability.

   The first thing you need to consider when choosing your wing is the size. A small wing may not give as much down-force as a larger one, but it also weighs less and provides less speed restricting drag. So, if the track you will be racing on has good traction naturally and has nice long straights, a small wing may be an advantage. Large wings will obviously give you more down-force and on tracks with poor traction and short straights, will be the obvious choice. If rear end grip on cornering is also a problem, go for those high side panels as well.

   Tuning your wing angle can also improve the way it performs. A more acute angle will give you improved grip, but will also increase drag. If you go more flat with your wing, down-force is reduced, but drag is also reduced, so setting your wing angle is simply a matter of trial and error to suit your needs.

   The way the wing is mounted on your car must also be considered. If it uses a wire, it has a tendency to flex as it pushes down; this obviously flattens the angle as you speed along the straights, reducing drag, which could be good in some cases, but bad in others. If your wing is held by a rigid alloy or plastic support, the previous consideration is not a problem. Down-force is maintained as constant, but so is the drag.

   Changing and tuning things like your wing may seem futile if you are the big fish in a small pond and winning at your local track is not a problem. But if you ever go to the bigger ponds, its considering things like this that can keep you competitive.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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