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1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck:

Kyosho DMT-VE - 30843 (Radio Controlled Model)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho DMT-VE:


  Released by Kyosho in 2010, the 4WD DMT VE Monster Truck - # 30843 - is shaft driven, on a formed plate chassis, with gear differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

Kyosho DMT-VE
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  To race the Kyosho DMT-VE, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.

  Using plain language, our guides will help you choose the right Electric Motor for your DMT-VE and achieve the best Gearing, for any racetrack, to suit your particular needs.

  Discover what the top racers do to reduce friction and get more from their Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips. Learn how to avoid Radio interference, and we reveal the secrets of Charging your Batteries to give more punch, duration and increased performance.









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★ Kyosho DMT-VE Chassis ★
Kyosho DMT-VE Chassis


Buying a Used Kyosho DMT-VE
Monster Truck (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Kyosho DMT-VE Electric Monster Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kyosho DMT-VE is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your DMT-VE model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your DMT-VE Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The DMT-VE steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kyosho DMT-VE is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your DMT-VE model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Monster Truck, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive

   More often installed on off road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor.

   The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount.

   Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference, but normally the way to do this is from a standing start, jamming on the throttle and simply getting the feel of the car for that particular surface, being grass, gravel or dust. Personally I adjust it to give me around a metre and a half slip, before it achieves full drive. Wear on the slipper clutch is natural and often has to be readjusted after each race.

   The Hydra-Drive, or Fluid Coupling design has actually been around since the 1950s, but only came to RC a couple of years after the introduction of the slipper clutch. In principle, the Hydra-Drive is supposed to give similar results to the slipper clutch but need less continuous adjustment. In practice, for me anyway, it was not easy to live with.

   Hydra-Drives employ two independent impellers, immersed in silicone oil and enclosed in a sealed housing. Again, like the slipper clutch, one impeller is fixed to the spur gear, the other the drive. As power is applied, the spur gear will spin its impeller, until through the oil, drive is picked up by the drive impellor. The only real way to adjust the drive was to change the oil viscosity, or in some, the gap between the impellers could be adjusted by shims. All this took time and as far as I am aware, the Hydra-Drive is no longer used in RC.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Ackerman

   So What is Ackerman?

   If you place your car on a table facing away from you and turn the steering to full lock to the left, you will notice the angle the left hand wheel has turned is more than that of the right hand wheel. That is the Ackerman effect.

   Moving your car to the edge of the table, with the wheels still on full lock, push it round a complete circle. What you will notice, is the diameter of the circle made by the inside wheel, is smaller than that of the outside wheel. This is a good thing.

   Consider what would happen if both wheels turned to the same angle. In this example, the inside wheel would have a tendency to drag sideways, making the car unstable and difficult to drive.

   The standard kit setting on the majority of RC Model cars, are generally pretty good for beginners, but when your experience increases, you will find out just what tuning your Ackerman can do for your driving style and why it can be helpful when setting up your car for any particular track.

   Some of the cheaper RC Models have fixed position steering links. Others have various methods to change Ackerman settings, like changing shims under the ball connector etc. These days, most modern cars allow you to adjust your Ackerman by lengthening or shortening the links by simply removing two screws and repositioning the links in relation to the front suspension arms.

   Lengthening the links, by adjusting the pivot points of the steering arms back towards the centre line of the rear axle, will give you Less Ackerman, providing you with more aggressive steering as you enter a corner. Useful on slippery tracks, to counter when the car tends to slide to the outside of the corner as you first turn into it.

   Shortening the links, by adjusting the pivot points of the steering arms more forward of the centre line of the rear axle, will give you More Ackerman, making cornering less aggressive, more predictable and improving car stability, better for high grip tracks, with smooth sweeping corners.

   How to implement these adjustments varies from model to model so you will have to refer to your manual for full instructions.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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