RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Kawada M500GT2R
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1/10 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:

Kawada M500GT2R (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by Kawada circa 2014, the 2WD M500GT2R direct drive Touring Car - # M5101 - was upgraded with front friction dampers similar to the M300FX3.

  The model is based on a carbon graphite plate chassis, with a ball differential, front coil spring over kingpin suspension with friction dampers, rear ball seat motor-pod, with central coil spring over oil filled damper, side links, damper tubes, rubber tires and a full set of ball bearings.

Kawada M500GT2R
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  To race the Kawada M500GT2R, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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★ Kawada M500GT2R Chassis ★
Kawada M500GT2R Chassis

★ Kawada M500GT2R Chassis ★
Kawada M500GT2R Chassis

★ Kawada M500GT2R Chassis ★
Kawada M500GT2R Chassis

★ Kawada M500GT2R Chassis ★
Kawada M500GT2R Chassis

★ Kawada M500GT2R Chassis ★
Kawada M500GT2R Chassis


Buying a Used Kawada M500GT2R
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Kawada M500GT2R Electric Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kawada website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kawada Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kawada models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kawada M500GT2R is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your M500GT2R model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your M500GT2R Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The M500GT2R steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kawada M500GT2R is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kawada Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your M500GT2R model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Your First Race Meeting

   When you finally find a racing club near to where you live, that initial experience of stepping up onto the rostrum and looking down over the track can be very daunting. But soon, as the race starts, adrenaline will kick in and away you go. For the next five minutes, your focus is on nothing but getting your car around each corner, avoiding all the other cars on the track and just getting to the end of the race.

   Maybe your batteries dumped or you crashed and the car was damaged, perhaps you didn't actually come last, whatever happened, it doesn't really matter you are well and truly hooked.

   When the race is over, don't be afraid to ask the more experienced racers questions about setup, driving tips etc. They have all been where you are now and will be more than willing to help you. Show them your car, get some tips on tires, gearing and general set-up for the club track.

   Then, when you get back home, go through all your races in your mind. Try to identify the things you did wrong and figure out how to avoid those mistakes next time. Think about what all the more experienced racers told you and change your settings as they advised.

   Put down a few buckets or cones in the back yard to practice driving round, something that if you hit it won't damage your car. Get someone to time you for say ten laps and each day after school, try to beat that time. The adage, "Practice makes perfect" holds true in many things, not least the sport of RC racing and as your confidence increases, your racing skills improve and the trophies begin to line up on your bedroom shelf, you will one day yourself be the guy all the newbie's look to for advice and you will remember that day, you nervously stepped up onto that platform for the first time, looked down across the track and how your whole life changed in that fleeting moment.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

On Road Tires for Tarmac


   Modern day RC Model Rubber Tires for tarmac racing, generally come in wide or narrow format and in three compounds Soft, Medium and Hard, each compound corresponding to different track temperatures.

   Inserts also come as soft, medium and hard and are necessary to provide subtle but potentially race winning differences in grip, dependant on the grain structure of the tarmac used in the construction of the track.

   Club racers probably need just the three compound sets of tires, wide or narrow and with one particular type of insert. But if you are to venture into the world of National and International racing, you will need up to eighteen complete sets, to cover all the possible combinations of track condition, plus at least one set of wet weather tires.

   Determining the best tires and inserts for any given track on any given day can only come with experience, so on a new track to you, always ask the locals for their input. They should at least give you some idea what insert may be the best to use with your tire. The rest is based on the track temperature and the tarmac type.

   Your practice run will prove if the information you glean is correct and once you feel satisfied with your tire choice, it is at that point you can begin to fine tune your set up with our step by step guide, linked at the end of this article.

Additives for Rubber Tires


   There are a huge number of so called Tire additives out there for on-road slick tires and the majority do improve grip on most grades of outdoor tarmac constructed tracks, as well as indoor carpet tracks.

   The way additives work is to soften and make the rubber slightly tacky or sticky. The effect does wear off as the race goes on, but can give you the 5% you need to get your nose in front. The only disadvantage is that the effective life of the tires is reduced a price you have to pay if you have the need for speed.

   In the UK, Wintergreen based additives have been banned for a number of years, because of their tendency to adversely affect the tarmac on outdoor tracks, but they are still allowed in a number of other countries, so if you intend to race internationally, check the regulations of that country regarding additives beforehand.

   Also check out my article for On-Road Carpet Tires.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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