Radio Controlled Models
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1/8 Scale Nitro Rally/Touring Car:

HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by HPI (Hobby Products International) in 2012, the Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 - based on the WR8 3.0 Rally Car Chassis, came factory assembled RTR, with a pre-painted Bodyshell, Nitro Star G3.0 HO Engine and 2.4Ghz Radio System. A number of other bodyshell options were available (Check out our HPI Archive).

   The 4WD HPI Racing model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, anti roll bars, dogbone drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896

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   To get the best from the HPI WR8 3.0, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.






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★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Wheels ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Wheels
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Chassis
★ HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Wheels ★
HPI WR8 3.0 - Ford Fiesta RS WRC - # 109896 Wheels

Buying a Used HPI WR8 3.0
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used HPI WR8 3.0 Nitro Rally Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the HPI website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used HPI Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those HPI models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your HPI WR8 3.0 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your WR8 3.0 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your WR8 3.0 Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rally Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Rally Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The WR8 3.0 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your HPI WR8 3.0 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used HPI Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your WR8 3.0 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Ackerman

   So - What is Ackerman?

   If you place your car on a table facing away from you and turn the steering to full lock to the left, you will notice the angle the left hand wheel has turned is more than that of the right hand wheel. That is the Ackerman effect.

   Moving your car to the edge of the table, with the wheels still on full lock, push it round a complete circle. What you will notice, is the diameter of the circle made by the inside wheel, is smaller than that of the outside wheel. This is a good thing.

   Consider what would happen if both wheels turned to the same angle. In this example, the inside wheel would have a tendency to drag sideways, making the car unstable and difficult to drive.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Slipper Clutch and Hydra-Drive

   More often installed on Off-Road RC Models, the Slipper Clutch has been around since the late 1990s. Basically the idea is to prevent wheel spin and increase traction under acceleration, to improve the cars stability from a standing start, when landing from jumps or on corner exits. It also protects the spur gear and drivetrain, to some degree, when using a high torque motor.

   The design is quite simple, employing two independent metal plates, one generally fixed to the spur gear and the other to the drive mechanism, clamping onto a fibre or rubber ring or pad. Adjustment is commonly achieved by slackening or tightening a spring loaded nut on the end of the spur gear mount.

   Setting up the slipper clutch can take some time and is a matter of individual preference.

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