|
|
|
1/8 Scale Nitro Monster Truck:HPI Savage-X 4.6 (Radio Controlled Model)Navigation: Sitemap > Manufacturers > HPI All Manufacturers: Model Types > Monster Trucks > 1/8 Nitro Monster Trucks History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the HPI Savage-X 4.6:Originally Introduced by HPI (Hobby Products International) in 2007, the 4WD Savage X 4.6 RTR Monster Truck - # 867 / # 868 - came with a Nitro Star F4.6 engine and radio system. In 2011, two upgraded versions of the Savage X 4.6 - # 105644 / # 105645 (Red/Gray) - #106552 (Pink/Yellow) - were produced with an F4.6 big block engine and 2.4Ghz radio system. And in 2012, a Savage X 4.6 Special Edition - # 106364 - limited to 1000 models were produced, with orange anodised parts, to celebrate ten years of the Savage series. The HPI Racing model was shaft driven, on a TVP vertical frame chassis, with gear type differentials, 8 x coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, 2-speed transmission and a full set of ball bearings. 
To race the HPI Savage-X 4.6, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning. Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your Savage-X 4.6. Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers do to improve the efficiency of their HPI Savage-X 4.6 Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips. |
|
|
|
★ HPI Racing Savage X 4.6 Chassis ★ ★ HPI Racing Savage X 4.6 ★ |
Buying a Used HPI Savage-X 4.6 |
Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future. |
Hints and TipsAerodynamicsIt is commonly understood that weight improves traction. If you have ever seen TV coverage of any kind of full size motor racing, you will have heard the terms, aerodynamics and down force. Well, they also relate to small scale models in exactly the same manner. Bodyshell aerodynamics for RC model cars is a science in itself and the wrong one could loose you the race. Back in my day the shell to have for 1:10 on-road, was the Alfa Romeo 156. The bodyshell that came with the car kit was a Peugeot 406, but that soon went into the bin when I got the Alfa. The difference in performance was amazing, but it wasn't a patch on the Frewer, Ferrari F50. The rear wing on that bodyshell was phenomenal; it was the fastest thing on the track, great for club racing, but to my cost, illegal for top level racing. Regulations stipulate that the rear wing should be no higher than the roof of the car, the Frewer wing was way too high, so another one was relegated to the "do not use" box. Off-Road models also benefit from aerodynamics and down force, but to a lesser degree than on-road models. The rear wing provides good down force for improved traction on dirt tracks and is discussed in detail in one of my other articles. Way back in 1994, a company named Tenth Technology produced a 1:10 buggy called the Predator. The design of the car was innovative to say the least, with inboard laydown cantilever operated shocks and extra low, almost flat bodyshell. The most eye-catching element of the design was the wings. Not only did it have a nice large wing on the rear, it also had one of a similar size at the front. It was one of those cars where the idea seemed good and the car was fast … very fast and did once win the British Championship. The problem was its fragility. Any small knock damaging the front wing, made it un-drivable. |
Hints and TipsSolderingIn the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering. For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, if you were to advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is. Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC, but these days with connectors such as "Deans" and "Power Pole" this isn't necessary … but I still wouldn't use any kind of connector for the motor. There are basically two kinds of solder. Plumbers solder which is made up of 60% Lead and 40% Tin, where as electrical solder is the opposite 40% Lead with 60% Tin. NEVER use plumbers solder for your battery, ESC or motor joints. Lead melts at 327 degrees C, where as tin melts at 232 degrees C. The higher Lead content of plumbers means it melts at a higher temperature, which is not good for your battery cells. Also, Tin has almost half the electrical resistance of lead, so with the higher Tin content of electrical solder, electricity flows much easier to your motor. More recently, due to the European regulations for lead use, lead free solders are becoming more widely used … well, in Europe anyway. The problem with lead free is the melting temperature … it is much higher, making it difficult to produce reliable joints. Lead, as we know, is a poison to the body if ingested or inhaled in certain quantities. so when using lead based solder, try not to inhale any of the fumes and always wash your hands after completing your work. One of my friends also wears cotton gloves, but I find these cumbersome. For me lead / tin solder is far easier to use and if used with care, has less potential to damage your batteries having a much lower melting temperature. |
|
|
|
