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1/10 Scale Electric Drift/Touring Car:

HPI E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 - # 110568 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by HPI (Hobby Products International) in 2013, based on the E10 Drift Car chassis, the Discount Tire/Falken Tire Nissan S13 - # 110568 - came pre-built RTR, with a Saturn 27T motor, SC-15WP Waterproof ESC, NiMh Battery, Charger, 2.4Ghz Radio System, Falken Azenis RT-615K T-Drift Tires and Dai Yoshihara Wheels. The chassis was designed to allow repositioning of the motor for drift or touring car balance. A number of other bodyshell options were available (Check out our HPI Archive).

   The 4WD HPI Racing E10D is shaft driven, on a molded plastic chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

HPI E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 - # 110568

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   To get the best from the HPI E10 Drift, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.






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★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis
★ HPI Racing E10 Drift - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13 Chassis ★
HPI Racing E10 Drift Chassis

Buying a Used HPI E10
Drift Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used HPI E10 Electric Drift Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the HPI website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Drift Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used HPI Drift Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those HPI models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your HPI E10 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your E10 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your E10 Drift Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Drift Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Drift Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Drift Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Drift Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The E10 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your HPI E10 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used HPI Drift Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your E10 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Wheel Camber - for cornering stability

   Camber is described as the angle of the wheel as you look at it directly from the front or rear of your car and if set correctly will improve your cars cornering ability considerably, by providing increased traction. This simple to make adjustment is considered by many to be one of the most effective changes you can make to your car for better handling.

   Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel is angled outwards. Negative Camber has the top of the wheel angled inwards.

   First of all, get yourself a good camber gauge. All adjustments to your cars camber setting should be made with the car in race mode that means the motor, battery etc in position in the chassis.

   To check the angle of an On Road car, it must have the ride height already set to around 5mm.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Look after your Gears

   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric.

   The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch.

   The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

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