RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Hong-Nor X1X-CR.
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags

1/8 Scale Nitro Buggy:

Hong Nor X1X-CR Sport (Radio Controlled Model)


Navigation: Sitemap  >  Manufacturers  >  Hong Nor

All Manufacturers: Model Types  >  Buggys  >  1/8 Nitro Buggys

History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the X1X-CR:


  Designed and developed by Jammin in the USA and manufactured by Hong Nor in 2009, the 4WD X1X CR Sport Buggy, is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with 3 x gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, anti roll bars, rear dogbones, with front CVD universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

  The model was distributed in Europe by Jamara and in the USA by Ofna Racing as the "Jammin X1X Sport".

Hong-Nor X1X-CR
▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


  To race the Hong Nor X1X-CR, it has to have the best settings for your driving style and provide you with excellent handling and stability. The smallest changes can make a huge difference in the way your car performs on the track and our comprehensive instructions will help you to find the best Set-up to get you where you want to be.

  If you are having any problems, our guide will show you what to look for and how to fine tune the Nitro Engine for your X1X-CR.

  With some basic, sensible tips, you will discover just how easy it is to avert Radio interference, and Servo trouble, by moving your receiver or adjusting the position or height of your antenna. See how you can halve the friction and maintain your Hong Nor X1X-CR Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.









Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Items For Sale:






Flags

★ Hong Nor X1X-CR Buggy Chassis ★
Hong Nor X1X-CR Buggy Chassis

★ Hong Nor X1X-CR Buggy Chassis ★
Hong Nor X1X-CR Buggy Chassis


Buying a Used Hong Nor X1X-CR Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Hong Nor X1X-CR Nitro Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Hong Nor website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Hong Nor Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Hong Nor models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Hong Nor X1X-CR is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your X1X-CR model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your X1X-CR Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The X1X-CR steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Hong Nor X1X-CR is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Hong Nor Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your X1X-CR model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Glow Plugs

   Nitro Engines for RC Models, use a system to ignite the fuel mixture, that simply employs a wire coil in a small housing called a Glow Plug. To start the engine, a battery powered Starter, or Glow Igniter is connected to the Glow Plug and electric current heats the coil to white hot, so that when you pull start your engine, the air - fuel mixture in the cylinder is ignited. With the engine now running, the starter is no longer required. Heat generated under compression is enough to keep the coil element hot enough to keep the engine running.

   At some point, the Glow Plug originally supplied with your Engine will invariably burn out, so you will have to purchase a replacement. If your engine isn't too old you should be able to obtain a similar one, but if the manufacturer is no longer in business you may have a problem.
   If you still have the instruction book that came with your engine you may find there are a number of optional plugs available. Most Plugs generally have a code, indicating the plug elements effective operating temperature. These codes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so be wary if you need to consider a plug from a different Manufacturer than that of your engine.

   Basically, Smaller engines run better with Hot Plugs and Larger engines prefer Cold.
   Nitro fuels for RC engines normally have between 10 to 40 percent Nitromethane (CH3NO2). If you use fuel with a high proportion of Nitro, err towards Cold Plugs. Less Nitro, Hot.

   For example, For a .12ci (2.1cc) Nitro Engine, burning High percentage nitro fuel, a mid range plug would be best for performance.
   While a .21ci (3.5cc) Engine, with Low percentage nitro fuel, would prefer a Hot Plug.

   One more thing you may at some point consider when determining the right plug, is the compression ratio of your engine.
   By removing one of the Head shims you can Increase the compression. More shims, Lower compression. This option is not something I would recommend to those with little knowledge, so if you want to try this please be sure to ask someone with more experience before risking your expensive engine.
   High compression ratio engines run better with Cold Plugs. Conversely, Low compression ratio engines need Hot Plugs.

   If for some reason you use the wrong plug, you will soon know by how the engine runs. With too Hot a Plug, the engine will overheat and could damage your engine. If you hear the engine miss fire at high revs and you see pit marks on the cylinder head and piston, try either a cooler plug, add a shim to the head, or lower percentage Nitro fuel.

   If your Plug is too cold, your engine will idle poorly, lose acceleration and top speed. You will also notice the smell of fuel from the tail pipe. However, be wary, this could also be because of a rich fuel mixture.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Wheel Balancing

   At the tender age of 17 I passed my driving test. Of course, the first thing I did was to dash over to my girlfriends house and take her out to a long straight stretch of road close by where the boy racers would often congregate. No one was around that day, so the road was relatively quiet. I slowly went through the gears and we reached 65 with no problems, but as we got closer to 70, my hands sensed a small vibration on the steering wheel. By the time we reached 75, the steering wheel and the whole car was vibrating hard. I remember my girlfriend screaming for me to "slow down," Which I did of course and tried to laugh it off.

   Back home I told my dad what had happened and he reminded me, that just the week before we had put on a new set of front tires and it must be the balance that is out. Sure enough, after the wheels were balanced, 85, 90, was not a problem, the car drove perfectly.

   So, when I got deeper into RC, that memory returned and now I balance all my wheels.

   These days, wheel balancing equipment for RC cars is available from most RC model shops, but back then I had to make my own using the rear end of an old Tamiya F1 car. Here's how I did it.

   With the tire and insert mounted and glued, the wheel was fitted onto my home made balancer and allowed to settle. I would then gently turn the wheel through 90 degrees and again allow it to settle. Obviously the heavy side of the wheel would drop to the bottom due to gravity. Once I was satisfied, I would then make a mark on the rim with a felt tip pen at the top of the wheel where it came to rest. Removing the wheel I would mix a small amount of plastic resin and press a tiny amount of this into a recess on the wheel on the side where I made the mark. The whole process was then repeated until I was totally satisfied.

   I was amazed just how out of balance some of those wheels were and how much a small thing like that can make a difference on the track.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










On/Off Road
RC Models:

Radio
Equipment:

Accessories: