RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro.
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
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1/8 Scale Nitro Buggy:

Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Hyper 7 TQ Pro:


  Manufactured by Hobao in 2006, the 4WD Hyper 7 TQ Pro Buggy, is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, anti roll bars, rear alloy dogbones, with front universal joint drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

  The model was marketed in the USA by Ofna Racing.

Hobao Hyper 7 TQ - 1:8 Nitro RC Buggy
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  To race the Hobao Hyper 7 TQ, it has to have the best settings for your driving style and provide you with excellent handling and stability. The smallest changes can make a huge difference in the way your car performs on the track and our comprehensive instructions will help you to find the best Set-up to get you where you want to be.

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★ Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro ★
Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro

★ Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis ★
Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis

★ Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis ★
Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis

★ Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis ★
Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Pro Chassis


Buying a Used Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Hobao Hyper 7 TQ Nitro Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Hobao website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Hobao Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Hobao models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Hobao Hyper 7 TQ is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Hyper 7 TQ model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Hyper 7 TQ Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Hyper 7 TQ steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Hobao Hyper 7 TQ is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Hobao Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Hyper 7 TQ model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

   As new compounds were released, grip slowly improved. Then, with the release of the micro pin, super soft compound tires, off road was a completely different sport. Grip roll was now one of the problems drivers had to learn to contend with. This was something unheard of only a few short years before.

   Rubber Tires for On-road RC models had been around for a while in the early 1990s, but because sponge was so widely used, rubber never really caught on. Then, as Tamiya released its 1:10 on road models based on the off-road Manta Ray chassis, other manufacturers caught on and began producing their own 1:10 on-road cars. Schumacher released the SST 98, using the same gearbox and differentials as their Cat 2000 to reduce tooling costs. Tires were now being produced for this new scale in rubber. Pit Shimizu and Take-off were two of the leading RC on-road tire developers at the time, each releasing three different compounds, with recommended track temperature use. From that point on, on-road RC racing never looked back and the days of sponge and light ale came to a shuddering stop.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Decals

   After spending lots of time and effort to paint your bodyshell, you come to the point where you make it look good by putting on all those flashy decals, but before you rush in with the scissors and start cutting, there are a few things you should do first.

   Good preparation is key to a perfect job, so before you do anything with your decals, you must first of all wash your hands and then make sure the bodyshell is clean and no oil or grime from your previously grubby fingers remains on the Polycarbonate Lexan surface. Methylated spirits is the thing to use, or failing that, use one of those wipes you use for your computer monitor screen. As the body shell dries, you can carefully cut out the decals from the sheet. Do the big ones first and leave the smallest ones for last.

   Now you can prepare to the decals for positioning. Carefully remove the backing paper from the decal with your thumb nail and then put it back on again, but slightly out of line. Place the decal in the position you want it on the bodyshell and when you are satisfied, press down the sticky corner onto the bodyshell and peel off the backing paper, following it along with your fingers to avoid any bubbles. Repeat the process until all your decals are in place.

   Any bubbles or misfitting areas can be corrected by using a sharp modelling knife to carefully pierce the bubbles, or score the poorly fitting area and complete the process with your finger nail.

   Some misalignments can often be fixed using a hair dryer on the offending decal to soften the glue enough to allow you to reposition it, but be careful; Lexan can react like heat-shrink and may wrinkle if you use too much heat.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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