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RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
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1/18 Scale Electric Rally/Racing Car:

Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker (Radio Controlled Model)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by Hirobo circa 1999, the 4WD Dricon Wild Fokker Drift Control Racing Car, designed by Ryuji Karasawa, was available with a choice of three painted bodyshell options: Sand, Crimson, or Indigo.

  The model is belt driven on a molded plastic chassis and came assembled, with a motor, battery, charger and radio system.

Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker
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  To race the Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

  With simple to follow language, we can point you towards the correct Electric Motor for your Dricon Wild Fokker and achieve the best Gearing, for your battery and motor combination.

  Learn the secrets the professionals have known for years to get the best from their Bearings using a number of simple tips. See how you can easily avert Radio interference, and the best way to safely Charge your Batteries, for improved acceleration and more run time.









Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Items For Sale:






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★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker

★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker

★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker

★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker

★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker

★ Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker ★
Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker


Buying a Used Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker
Racing Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker Electric Racing Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Hirobo website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Racing Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Hirobo Racing Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Hirobo models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Dricon Wild Fokker model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Dricon Wild Fokker Racing Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Racing Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Racing Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Dricon Wild Fokker steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Hirobo Dricon Wild Fokker is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Hirobo Racing Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Dricon Wild Fokker model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Racing Car, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

   What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic.

   Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break.

   Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side.

   When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much.

   With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

On Road Tires for Tarmac


   Modern day RC Model Rubber Tires for tarmac racing, generally come in wide or narrow format and in three compounds Soft, Medium and Hard, each compound corresponding to different track temperatures.

   Inserts also come as soft, medium and hard and are necessary to provide subtle but potentially race winning differences in grip, dependant on the grain structure of the tarmac used in the construction of the track.

   Club racers probably need just the three compound sets of tires, wide or narrow and with one particular type of insert. But if you are to venture into the world of National and International racing, you will need up to eighteen complete sets, to cover all the possible combinations of track condition, plus at least one set of wet weather tires.

   Determining the best tires and inserts for any given track on any given day can only come with experience, so on a new track to you, always ask the locals for their input. They should at least give you some idea what insert may be the best to use with your tire. The rest is based on the track temperature and the tarmac type.

   Your practice run will prove if the information you glean is correct and once you feel satisfied with your tire choice, it is at that point you can begin to fine tune your set up with our step by step guide, linked at the end of this article.

Additives for Rubber Tires


   There are a huge number of so called Tire additives out there for on-road slick tires and the majority do improve grip on most grades of outdoor tarmac constructed tracks, as well as indoor carpet tracks.

   The way additives work is to soften and make the rubber slightly tacky or sticky. The effect does wear off as the race goes on, but can give you the 5% you need to get your nose in front. The only disadvantage is that the effective life of the tires is reduced a price you have to pay if you have the need for speed.

   In the UK, Wintergreen based additives have been banned for a number of years, because of their tendency to adversely affect the tarmac on outdoor tracks, but they are still allowed in a number of other countries, so if you intend to race internationally, check the regulations of that country regarding additives beforehand.

   Also check out my article for On-Road Carpet Tires.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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