RCScrapyard ► Iconic Vintage Radio Controlled (RC) Model Car Archive ► HBX (Haiboxing) Tigershark.
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags

1/8 Scale Nitro Monster Truck:

HBX Tigershark (Radio Controlled Model Review)


Navigation: Sitemap  >  Manufacturers  >  HBX Racing

All Manufacturers: Model Types  >  Monster Trucks  >  1/8 Nitro Monster Trucks

History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Tigershark:


  Introduced by HaiBoxing Racing (HBX) circa 2009, the 4WD Tiger Shark Monster Truck - # 3318A / 3353060 - came with a 21CXP engine and disk brakes.

  The model is shaft driven, on an alloy vertical plate frame chassis, gear type differentials, 8 x coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and ball bearings.

HBX Tigershark
▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


  To race the HBX Tigershark, it needs to be tuned to perfection for better stability, precise steering and provide enough grip to keep you on the track when going around tight bends at high speed. Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best Set-up to get you to the front and keep you there.

ebay









Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors












Items For Sale:






Flags

★ HBX Tiger-Shark ★
HBX Tiger-Shark

★ HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis ★
HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis

★ HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis ★
HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis

★ HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis ★
HBX Tiger-Shark Chassis


Buying a Used HBX Tigershark
Monster Truck (and What to look for)


   Buying a used HBX Tigershark Nitro Monster Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the HBX website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used HBX Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those HBX models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your HBX Tigershark is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Tigershark model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Tigershark Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Tigershark steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your HBX Tigershark is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used HBX Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Tigershark model and good racing.




▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Toe Angle

   When you first build your RC model car, you will no doubt have made all the settings advised in the manufacturers' manual and will take it out on the back yard not thinking of things like camber, caster or toe-in I know I did. It's only when you get competitive that you start learning about these things and just what a big difference they can make to the handling of your car. One of the more effective of these adjustments is Toe-in.

   The term, toe-in, toe-out, or toe-angle, refers to the alignment of the front or rear wheels, when viewed from above and is easily adjusted via the track rods or turnbuckles that link to the steering mechanism or directly to the steering servo horn.

   Front toe-in reduces steering when entering a corner, but improves steering response on corner exit under acceleration. On the straights, toe-in will also improve the cars stability while accelerating.

   Front toe-out will improve steering on corner entry, but makes the car unstable under acceleration on the straights and on bumpy tracks. The usual recommendation is to have up to 1 degree of either toe-in or toe out.

   Rear toe-in is generally found as the standard setting on most on-road and off-road RC models.

   More rear toe-in provides the car with more power under-steer, as well as improved stability and rear end traction. This setting is recommended for low grip tracks.

   Less rear toe-in slightly reduces steering on corner entry, but improved steering under acceleration.

   To measure toe-angle, I used to use my trusty vernier callipers to measure the width at the front of the wheels and the rear of the wheels and using this information along with the diameter of the wheels simply calculate the angle. Or, you could alternatively use this data to draw a triangle on a sheet of paper and measure the angle with your trusty school protractor.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Maintain your Fuel System

   Nitro engines need a regulated constant supply of fuel to run efficiently. If this supply is restricted or contaminated in any way, the engine will show problems in a number of ways.

   If your engine is running hotter than normal, begins to stutter, has trouble idling or won't even start, your first instinct would be that it is running lean, but when you try to make adjustments, it has no effect. The reasons for your problem could be a number of things, but the most likely is a fuel or fuel line problem.

   First of all visually inspect the fuel system. Check the fuel line for any kinks or tight bends that could restrict free flow. If you do find any kinks or any damage to the line, I would recommend changing it rather than trying to simply straighten it out or repairing it in any way. Any leaks you find in the system must be dealt with, if you can, replace the parts.

   If the line looks okay, disconnect it and check for any blockages. Clean and flush it out if you can, or if necessary replace it. If your system has a fuel filter, clean or replace it.

   Check the fuel tank. If the fuel cap or the tank has been damaged in some way, this could allow contamination or debris to enter the system. If damage is found, don't risk it, change the tank.

   If the tank looks undamaged, drain it and refill with fuel. However, before you do this, check your manual to make sure that you are using the right type of fuel for your engine. If in any doubt, don't be afraid to ask someone.

   Make sure the fuel line is the correct size. If too small, it will not be capable of supplying the amount of fuel the engine requires. If the line is too large it could be impossible to reduce the flow enough for the engines needs and be constantly running rich.

   Second hand engines can often have had changes made by the previous owner that could be causing your problems. If after carrying out all the recommendations in this article, check the manufacturers' website for any details on recommended fuel and fuel system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










On/Off Road
RC Models:

Radio
Equipment:

Accessories: